Biodynamics

Biodynamic gardening
The practice of biodynamic gardening began formally in 1924 with a series of lectures by the Austrian philosopher and educationalist, Rudolf Steiner. The eight lectures build on traditional practices of organic land management, such as crop rotations and the use of legumes and other soil-building plants, by adding a wider understanding of the terrestrial and cosmic forces which can he consciously developed to maximize productivity-hence "biodynamic".

Terrestrial forces relate to the soil arid are influenced by the near planets (Moon, Mercury. Venus) through wha Steiner characterized as the "limestone element". This clement provides moisture and fertility to plants, making them sturdy and nutritious, with lush growth. The cosmic forces, by contrast. proceed from the Sun and the distant planets (Saturn. Jupiter, Mars), expressing themselves in light and warmth, through the silica element in the earth

We can see the effects of silica in, for example, the growth of Mediterranean herbs. They grow best at high altitudes in poor calcareous soils They produce less hulk, are smaller and sturdier, but with stronger flavour and increased essential oils. These forces are necessary to any fruit cultivated for its taste and odour; they help to deepen the colour of flowers, and strengthen the growth of vegetable plants.

At the heart of the biodynamic approach arc the "preparations" which are used to optimize growing conditions. These preparations are specially fermented substances used in tiny quantities on the soil and in the compost heap. They do not add nutrients themselves but act to regulate soil conditions and stimulate plant life.

There are eight main preparations made in a specific manner to 'dynamize" them, so they can he used in very small quantities with a far­ reaching effect. For no apparent reason they have been allocated numbers from 500 to 507. The first two, 500 and 501, are used as sprays on the soil, and the remaining six are placed in the compost heap at the time it is constructed

The soil sprays
The two field sprays are the horn manure (500) preparation designed to enhance the forces of the Earth, supporting the limestone or terrestrial principle, and the horn silica (501) preparation, which radiates the forces of light and warmth, supporting the silica or cosmic principle.

Preparation 500, by working with the forces that come from the Earth, increases soil futility with particular effect on root growth and primary shoot development. It is made from cow manure which has been packed into a cow horn and stored below ground over winter, the time when cosmic forces of light and wanmth are at their weakest and the Earth forces are most active. It is sprayed on bare soil immediately before the last cultivation prior to sowing or planting. It can also be sprayed on grassland in spring or after cutting.

Preparation 501 is a silica spray made from finely ground quartz crystal or a silicate such as feldspar. This too is packed tightly into a cow horn and stored underground, but this time over a summer period. in a sunny spot, when the forces of light and warmth are strongest. Silica is found all over the world, as well as in the bodies of animals and plants. According to Steiner, its function is to mediate cosmic activities relating to light and heat. Its influence is on all the upward growing tendencies of the plant, especially flower and fruit formation.

The use of the 501 spray affects whatever part of the plant is growing at the time, so it should be used when the part you wish to harvest is forming. For example, on root crops. when the tops are a few inches high and the root is starting to thicken; on cabbages when the inside leaves begin to turn; on fruiting crops, including beans and peas, when the flower buds form

Use of the sprays
Only very small amounts of the material are needed: a portion of 500 for one acre will weigh about 2oz (57g) and a portion of 501 for the same area of land about 0.05oz (1.5g). Each preparation then needs to be stirred in 4 gallons (18 litres) of clean, lukewarm water, preferably rain water. The stirring is a vital part of the process: it should be done vigorously for one hour, creating a vortex in one direction almost down to the bottom of the barrel, and then immediately breaking it to create a vortex in the opposite direction.

In this way the water and the preparation are fully mixed and the dynamic influence is able to reach into every particle of water. The spray should then be used within three hours, otherwise it will have to be stirred again. Preparation 501 should only be used when 500 has been sprayed.

Just as the rhythm of the year is followed in the making of the preparations, so best results are obtained by spraying at the right time of day. Therefore, in general, evening is best for preparation 500, when the Earth inhales. Preparation 501 is best sprayed in the early morning when the Earth is exhaling and its forces rise to meet the light and warmth of the Sun. Spray 500 in large droplets and 501 in a fine mist.

The compost preparations
The six compost preparations (502­507) are used together in the heap, and inserted when the heap has been completed (see *****). Their action is more specific than the two field preparations, and work more directly with the chemical elements active in plant growth and fertility (see chart). A pinch of each is enough for several tons of compost.

For preparations 502 to 506, make a hole for each, using a stick or crowbar, about 12-18in (30-45cm) deep into the pile, evenly spaced out around the heap. Then make each preparation into a small ball with a little soil and drop it into the hole, which should then be filled up with some old compost or tine soil, making sure that the ball is i n direct contact with the surrounding compost material.

Preparation 507 is used as a liquid, at the rate of one pinch to a gallon (4.5 litres) of water, stirred vigorously for 10 minutes and then sprayed over the heap. In the first year of conversion to biodynamic production, it is a good idea to add half a set of compost preparations to each 4 gallons (18 litres) of rain water when making up your solution of 500.

A ninth preparation, 508, is notproduced with the same attention to dynamic forces and its effect is more local. It is made as a tea from common horsetail (Equisetum arvense), which is found on dry barren ground and is strong in silica. It acts as a prophylactic anti-fungal agent, both in the garden and greenhouse, and can be used freely. Boil 3.5oz (100g) in 1 gallon (4.5 litres) of water for 10 minutes, and, when cool, spray it on to plants and soil.

Lunar planting
In the age of electric light, it's hard to imagine the important place the Moon occupied until relatively recently in the history of the human race. The Moon was the brightest nightlight we - and all other life-forms - had. As well as shedding light to see by, it was also the picture-calendar used by people all over the world, helping them decide when it was time to sow seed and harvest crops.

Planting by the Moon is more than just a matter of checking your data, though. Other aspects of the Moon have also been observed to influence the speed of germination and the chances of success when transplanting, weeding, and harvesting. The amount of light shed by the Moon in its various phases affects growth rates, and so does the Moon's gravitational field, which also controls ocean tides on Earth.

Many people have found that the two weeks of increasing Moonlight (front new to full Moon) stimulate leaf growth. Conversely, root growth is favoured during the (alternating) weeks I when lunar gravity is lowest, when Earth's gravity has greater sway. Putting these two effects together, the lunar cycle can be divided into four parts, beginning at the new Moon:
• Week 1, lunar gravity decreasing, light increasing;
• Week 2, lunar gravity increasing, light increasing;
• Week 3, lunar gravity decreasing, light decreasing;
• Week 4, lunar gravity increasing, light decreasing.

'I'hus week 1 is good for general balanced growth; week 2 favours foliage; week 3 favours root growth; and the combined effect of increased lunar gravity and dwindling Moonlight in week 4 provides a period of rest.

Lunar gravity appears to act on germinating seeds by helping them to burst out of the seed-coat, so that rapidly germinating seeds are best sown a couple of days before the high lunar tide - to give them time to take in water in advance. Slow-germinating seeds are best sown around full Moon, to allow a longer soaking time.

In addition to the weekly phases, and in keeping with biodynamic theory, there are said to be subtle effects related to the zodiacal house which the Moon occupies. According to this theory, it is advisable to plant root crops when the Moon is an Earth sign, leaf crops when in a Water sign. Air signs favour flowering, while Fire signs favour fnut and seed development.

BIODYNAMIC COMPOST PREPARATIONS

PREPARATION COMPOSITION ACTION
502 Yarrow (Adlillea milleJirliurn) Flowers placed in stag's bladder.hung in sun during summer and buried over winter Regulates potassium and aids sulphur processes
503 Chamomile (Chatnoniila recutira, blatricaria chanmrnilla) Blossoms placed in small intestine of cow, buried in good humus over winter Regulates calcium, mediates health-giving powers to the soil. stabilizes nitrogen
504 Stinging nettle(Urtica dioica) Nettle buried for a year. in barkor peat moss Aids humus formation, carries potassium and calcium forces. Makes soil "intelligent"
505 Oak bark (Quercus winir) Scrapings from outer bark placed in skull of domestic animal, buried under leaking drainpipe over winter Draws calcium, strengthens against plant diseases
506 Dandelion (Tarasanun officinale) Blossoms gathered and dried in spring, folded into mesentery of cow and buried over winter Regulates silica in in relation topotassium
507 Valerian (Vtleriana officinalis) Squeezed flower juice is diluted in rain water, stirred for 10 min,and sprayed over compost Aids phosphorus processes, surrounds heap with warmth

Literature:
Koenig, Karl. EARTH AND MAN. Biodynamic Literature 1982.
Pfeiffer, E. BIODYNAMIC GARDENING AND FARMING. 4 Vols, Lanthom 1983.
Soper, John. BIODYNAMIC GARDENING. Biodynamic Agricultural Association 1983.