Handloom Construction and Use

2 A Weaver's Dictionary

Before continuing with the text familiarize yourself with these words. Listed here are some of the words used in this manual which refer to specific tools or processes used in loom construction or in weaving. Words referring to parts of looms have been defined in terms of their function rather than their construction, since actual construction may vary with the loom type.

Balanced Weave (n) The warp and weft show equally in the finished cloth.

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Beater (n) A special tool used to push against the finished row of weaving to create a tight, firm cloth. Beaters of different types are used depending on the fibre being woven and the loom in use.

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Bobbin (n) A small spool used in some shuttles to hold the thread or yarn being used as weft. (See page 118 for a more complete description.)

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Bobbin winder (n) A machine used to wind yarn on to a bobbin.

Beast beam (n) Another name for the cloth beam, or the crosspiece of the loom which is closest to the weaver during weaving. It is usually applied to looms having a continuous warp.

Cloth beam (n) The crosspiece of a loom frame, or on some looms a separate bar which holds the rolled up finished cloth. See also Breast Beam.

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Comb (n) 1. A part of more complex looms which separates individual warp threads to keep them straight and evenly spaced and which also serves as a Beater, pushing the newly put in weft against the finished edge of the weaving. It is sometimes called the Reed, because it may be constructed of thin slivers of reed. 2. A toothed tool used to straighten and untangle fibres before spinning. (See page 114 for a further description.)

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Comb (v) The process by which fibres are straightened and smoothed to prepare them for spinning into yarn. (See page 9 for a more detailed description.)

Dents (n) The spaces between the teeth of the Comb.

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Drafting (v) Drawing a diagram of a threading pattern for the warp. (See page 130)

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Fiber (n) The raw material, from a plant, animal or synthetic source, from which thread, yarn or pliable strips are made for weaving.

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Handloom (n) Any frame which holds the threads taut for human-powered weaving.

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Harness (n) A combination of pulleys and heddles which raise and lower selected warp threads.

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Heddles (n) A special device, of varying design, which holds selected warp threads in the proper position for weaving.

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Heddle stick (n) A rod or stick which supports the heddles.

Lease Sticks (n) Two lightweight sticks or poles woven into the warp behind the heddles. They increase warp tension and help keep the warp straight and evenly spaced.

Knotted weaves (n) A style of weaving in which the weft is tied to the warp with one of several special knots.

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Macrame (n) A technique for making fringes, braids, laces and openwork designs using several types of knots, especially the square knot.

Multiple Harness Loom (n) Any loom having more than one set of harnesses.

Overhand knot (n) A simple knot used to join two threads together, and also used to tie together the warp left at each end of a woven piece.

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Pile (n) A soft, upstanding weft, similar to fur or velvet, produced by knotted weaves that have been cut short. (See page 143)

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Plain weave (n) The simpliest of all the weaves. The weft is woven over and under alternating warps. Also known as Tabby Weave. (See page 131)

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Plying (v) Twisting together two or more strands of fibre or yarn to produce a thicker or stronger thread or yarn. (See page 10 for a more detailed description.)

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Raddle (n) A special tool used to guide the warp on to the warp beam during the warping process.

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Selvedges (n) The edges of the woven cloth that are parallel to the warp.

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Shag (n) A soft, upstanding weft, similar to pile, except that the weft is left uncut and so has an uneven, fluffy appearance. It is produced by the knotted weaves. (See page 144)

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Shed (n) The space created when selected warp threads are raised and lowered through which the weft is passed.

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Shed stick (n) A stick used on simple looms to create the shed, or space through which the weft is passed.

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Shuttle (n) A tool of various design that holds the weft as it is passed through the shed. (See page 116 for a more complete description.)

Skein (n) A measured length of continuous yarn wound in a loose circle and tied at opposite ends.

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Skeiner (n) A tool used to wind yarn into a skein. (See page 119 for more detail.)

Skein winder (n) A tool used to hold a skein of yarn as it is unwound on to a shuttle or bobbin. Sometimes called a Reeler. (See page 120 for more detail.)

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Spindle (n) A quickly rotating stick on which spun yarn is wound.

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The rotating motion of the spindle twists the fibre into thread. (See page 9 for more detail.)

Spinning (v) Twisting together animal, plant or synthetic fibres to create continuous strands of thread. (See page 10 for more detail.)

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Spinning wheel (n) A human-powered mechanical device which serves to rotate the spindle for spinning fibres into yarn.

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Square knot (n) A strong knot used to join two threads together; also used in Macrame.

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Stretcher (n) A metal or wooden bar that holds the edges or selvedges of the woven cloth parallel. (See page 122 for a more detailed description.)

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Tapestry weave (n) A variety of plain weave in which several colours are woven into a design or picture. (See page 140)

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Taut (adj) A string or thread pulled as tightly as possible. The tauter (or tighter) a thread is pulled the higher the pitch sound will be made when the string is plucked with the fingers.

Thread (n) A continuous strand of fibre, in this manual synonymous with yarn.

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Threading (v) Drawing the warp through the heddle and teeth of the comb.

Treadles (n) Another name for the footpedals which operate the harnesses on the foot-powered loom.

Twill weave (n) A weave produced when a warp or weft thread, or both, go over and under more than one thread at a time in a regular pattern. (See page 133 for a more complete description.)

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Twist (n) The direction in which yarn is turned in spinning or plying. A Z twist turns clockwise. An S twist turns counterclockwise.

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Twisting (v) The process of placing a weight on one end of a pliable strip of fibre and turning the strip to produce a rounded circumference. (See page 10 for more detail.)

Warp (n) The group of threads or yarns stretched across the loom frame, and extending perpendicularly from the weaver's body. Also, called Warp Threads.

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Warp beam (n) A bar or crosspiece found on most looms which hold the unwoven warp threads.

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Warp chain (n) A simple finger crochet stitch used to gather measured warp and prevent it from untangling.

Warp-faced (adj) A cloth in which only the warp threads show.

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Warping (v) The process of winding the warp on to the loom frame or warp beam and threading it through the heddles and comb.

Warping board (n) A special tool used to measure out long length of warp in a confined area. (See page 124 for a complete description.)

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Weave (n) The pattern or arrangement in which the warp and weft intertwine. (See Chapter 7 for a complete discussion of the different weaves.)

Weaver (n) The person who is operating the loom.

Weaver's knot (n) A special knot used only for joining a broken warp thread. It does not slip.

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Weaving (v) The process of intertwining the warp and weft together to create a piece of cloth.

Weft (n) The threads woven in and out of the stretched warp to produce a piece of continuous cloth. Also referred to as weft threads.

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Weft-faced (adj) A cloth in which only the weft threads show.

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Yarn (n) A continuous strand of fibre, in this manual synonymous with thread.

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