Handloom Construction and Use
5 The Foot-Powered Loom
There are two versions of the Foot-Powered Loom presented here. Directions are given first for building the frames for the Pit Loom (which can be fixed to a wall or ceiling) and the Free-Standing Loom. Instructions for constructing the moveable parts and for warping and weaving on the looms follow and are the same for both of these foot-powered looms.
Pit Loom Version <see picture>
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DIMENSIONS: Height: 120cm or height from floor to ceiling Width: 100cm Length: 200cm
LENGTH OF WARP HELD: 200 to 3600cm
WIDTH OF FINISHED WEAVING: 2 to 100cm
Materials Needed
For the Frame of both wall-mounted and ceiling-mounted types:
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Four (4) appropriately shaped forked tree branches at least 15cm in diameter at the base, and at least 60cm in length from the base to the bottom of the fork. Commercial lumber, 5x20x75 with a notch cut out as indicated, may be substituted.
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For the Frame of the wall-mounted type only:
One (1) forked tree branch at least 15cm in diameter at base and 120cm long. Commercial lumber 5x20x120cm with a notch cut out as indicated, may be substituted.
One (1) piece of wood 115cm long and 5cm in diameter.
Tools and Supplies (for both types)
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Sandpaper
Oil for Wood
Wood Preservative
Shovel
Cement (Optional)
Pit Loom Construction
A. Find a Site
This loom is permanently built into the house or other building. Locate so that it will not interfere with other activities and where the weaver will be comfortable while working.
1. Locate the loom in a building with an earthen floor. After the loom is constructed the floor may be cemented over.
2. Place the front of the loom in such a way that light from a door or window will come from the weaver's side or over his or her shoulder.
3. Leave clear access to both ends of the loom from at least one side.
4. Build a loom supported by a wall so that one of the long sides of the loom runs along the wall.
5. Build a loom supported by the ceiling so that there is a beam about midway over the loom from which to hang the harnesses.
B. Prepare the Wood
1. Remove bark
2. Sand and smooth any rough places or edges
3. Put wood preservative on the bases of the five forked posts
4. Oil the wood to prevent splitting
C. Erect the Frame
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1. Mark off a rectangle one meter wide by two meters long on the floor where the loom will be located.
2. Dig a hole in each of the four corners. The hole should be about 30cm deep.
3. Place the four short forked posts in the holes and fill the earth firmly around them. Clay or mixed clay soils will provide the firmest base. Make sandy soils firmer by adding clay or cement.
D. Build the Pit
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1. Mark off a second rectangle 20cm in from the front of the loom, 60cm wide, 80cm long.
2. Dig the pit 40 to 50cm deep, about the length of the weaver's leg from the back of the knee to the sole of the foot. <see picture>
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E. Attach the Wall-Supports for the Wall-Supported Type
1. Dig a hole 30cm deep midway along the outside edge of the rectangle.
2. Place the end of the 120cm forked post in hole and fill as described earlier.
3. Place the meter length of wood in the fork and push until it touches the wall. It should be parallel to the ground and at right angles with the wall. Mark the wall where it touches.
4. Remove pole and make a hole in the wall at that spot, the same diameter as the stick.
5. Put pole back into the fork and push until it is firmly in the wall.
6. Seal with plaster or cement.
The Wall Supported Frame Is Now Complete <see picture>
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OPTIONAL: If desired the floor and pit can be coated with a smooth layer of cement.
THE MOVING PARTS FOR THIS LOOM AND THE WARPING AND WEAVING TECHNIQUES ARE DESCRIBED STARTING ON PAGE 84.
Free-Standing Version <see picture>
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DIMENSIONS:
Height: 130cm
Width: 98cm
Length: 200cm
LENGTH OF WARP HELD: 200 to 3600cm
WIDTH OF CLOTH WOVEN: 2 to 90cm
Saw 26
TOOLS AND SUPPLIES:
Hammer Sandpaper
Drill Wood Glue
Wood Screws
Rasp Oil for Wood
Screwdriver
Materials Needed:
For Frame: (Letters are used to identify pieces in text)
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(A) Four pieces of wood - 110cm long, 6cm in diameter OR 4x6x110
(B) Four pieces of wood - 132cm long, 8cm in diameter OR 8x8x132
(C) Two pieces of wood - 5x10x30
(D) Two pieces of wood - 200cm long, 8cm in diameter OR 6x8x200
(E) Two pieces of wood - 4x9x30cm
(F) Two pieces of wood - 200cm long, 6cm in diameter OR 3x6x200
(G) Two pieces of wood - 3x4x55
(H) One board - 32x110, thickness ranging from 2 to 5cm
(J) Two poles or sticks - 110cm long, 2cm in diameter
Fourteen (14) wooden pegs or dowels 15cm long, 3cm in diameter
Free-Standing Loom Construction
A. Prepare the Wood
1. Remove bark of unmilled tree limbs
2. Sand and smooth all rough spots and edges
3. Oil wood to prevent splitting
B. Build the Frame (all dimensions in centimeters)
1. Trim both ends of pieces A as illustrated.
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2. Cut four slots in each of the four B pieces using the dimensions indicated. Slots must go completely through piece. <see picture>
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3. Shape piece C as illustrated. Drill hole as diagramed. Sand inside until smooth. <see picture>
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4. Trim ends of piece D as illustrated. Cut a slot 2x7cm 32cm in from one end of each piece D. Slot should be 7cm long.
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5. Trim bottom ends of E as shown. Cut out notch as shown on pattern. Sand inside until smooth.
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6. Trim ends of each piece F as illustrated.
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C. Join the Frame
1. Attach each piece C to piece B in the position diagramed using two wooden pegs and glue. <see picture>
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2. Place the trimmed end of piece E in the slot in piece D. The notch must face toward the shorter end as shown.
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Glue and peg in place. Make sure it is securely attached: this piece undergoes great stress during weaving.
3. Place pieces A into the corresponding slots of pieces B. Note the position pieces C in illustration glue and screw together.
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4. Place the trimmed ends of D and F into the appropriate slots in pieces B. Hammer them so that the trimmed end projects as far as possible.
5. Drill a hole 2cm in diameter, as close as possible to the crosspiece at each point where the trimmed ends project.
6. Taper the remaining eight pegs so that they are 3cm at the top and 2cm at the bottom.
7. Drive the tapered peg into the drilled holes. <see picture>
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8. Place Piece H, the seat, between the end of the loom and piece E.
D. Make and Attach the Rod Holder
1. Cut ten semi-circular notches out of the top edge of piece G with the dimensions illustrated.
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2. Smooth inside edges of cutouts with rasp and sandpaper.
3. Glue and screw pieces G to the top of pieces F in the location illustrated.
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4. Place pieces J, the rods, across the top of the loom frame, resting in the notches of piece G.
The Moveable Parts for Both Loom Designs
The following parts--the beams, beater, comb and heddles--are designed to be interchangeable for both foot-powered looms. These parts are not a permanent part of the loom frame. When necessary they can be removed--even when there is still cloth being woven--and stored away. This means that more people can weave than might be possible otherwise; it is not necessary for each weaver to have his or her own frame. It is possible to construct a set of moveable parts for each weaver so that several people can share the same loom frame.
I. Cloth Beam
(SEE ILLUSTRATION ON PAGE 85)
A. Materials Needed:
One (1) straight tree limb - 125cm long, 10cm in diameter, or milled lumber - 10 x 10 - 125cm.
B. Construction
1. Trim the piece of wood to 6cm in diameter for 115cm of its length.
2. Leave the remaining 10cm in diameter, but drill and chisel a hole 2cm by 5cm completely through one side.
3. Drill a similar hole from the other side at right angles to the first.
4. Cut a notch 2cm by 90cm completely through the beam in the 6cm diameter section.
The Cloth Beam Is Now Complete <see picture>
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II. The Warp Beam
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A. Materials Needed:
One (1) straight tree limb, 125cm long, 10cm in diameter, or milled lumber 10x10x125cm.
B. Construction
1. Construction proceeds as described for the cloth beam from Step 1 to Step 3.
2. Cut groove 2 x 90cm only to a depth of 2cm; do not cut completely through the beam. <see picture>
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The Warp Beam Is Now Complete
III. The Beater
(SEE ILLUSTRATION ON PAGE 85)
A. Materials Needed:
Two (2) pieces of wood - 5 x 5 x 120cm (labelled A).
Two (2) pieces of wood - 1 x 4 x 120cm (labelled B).
Two (2) pieces of wood - 1 x 2 x 4cm (labelled C).
B. Construction
1. Drill and chisel a hole 1cm by 4cm in each end of both pieces A. Smooth the insides of the holes.
2. Carve a groove 1cm deep the length of both pieces A between the two holes as shown.
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3. Nail piece C to the bottom of each piece B.
4. Sand and smooth each piece B. Taper the top end to a point, to ease assembly.
5. Slide pieces B into the holes in pieces A so that the grooved edges of pieces A face one another.
The Beater Is Now Complete <see picture>
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C. Attach the Beater to the Loom
Pit Loom
1. Ceiling type: suspend a rod one (1) meter long from 2 hooks in a ceiling beam. <see picture>
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2. Wall type: suspend from a crosspiece which is attached to the wall and supported by a fork. <see picture>
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3. Free-Standing: Attach to rod (J) which rests across top of frame on pieces G. <see picture>
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a) Tie arms of beater to rod as illustrated. A leather shoe sole may be used to create a simple hinge.
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b) The beater should swing freely at the same height as the top edge of the cloth beam. <see picture>
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IV. THE COMB
A. Materials Needed:
1. Four (4) pieces of lightweight wood - 0.2 x 0.8 x 100cm.
2. Reed - 220 pieces - 0.3 x 0.5 x 12cm for heavy two-ply warp.
OR
- 380 pieces - 0.15 x 0.5 x 12cm for medium cotton warp.
OR
- 500 pieces - 0.1 x 0.5 x 12cm for fine cotton warp.
NOTE: The size and number of reed pieces is determined by the diameter of the warp thread used. You may have to make adjustments in the above recommendations to suit your particular warp.
3. Two pieces of wood - 0.5 x 2 x 12cm
4. Cotton string, about 20 meters, and the same diameter as that of the warp to be used.
5. A sharp knife.
B. Construction
1. Take two of the pieces A and one piece C and place them together sandwich style as shown.
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2. Securely knot the end of the cotton string around one piece A at the end as shown. A small notch can be made with the knife to prevent slipping if necessary.
3. Loop in and out of the two ends of pieces A in a figure eight about six times
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4. Bring the string parallel to piece A on one side past piece C.
5. Holding it in that position with one finger, bring the rest of the string under and up around the top of it.
6. When it meets the string being held by the finger thread it through the loop as shown.
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7. Pull down and then up to tighten the loop. Knot should be on the side of the meter length.
8. Repeat Steps 1 through 7 with the other two (2) pieces of A, attaching them to the bottom of piece C.
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9. Place one of the slivers of reed between the two sticks. Loop the string around as diagramed.
10. There should be a space of about 0.1cm to 0.2cm created by the string. If there is no space, or if the space is too small for your warp, either start over using the string doubled, or make a second loop as done in Step 9.
11. Repeat Step 9 at bottom, fastening the reed in place at both ends.
12. Place another sliver of reed in position. Repeat the knot as shown in Steps 9 through 11.
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13. Continue, doing both top and bottom, until you are 3cm from the end. You may not be able to fit all the reed because of variation in the spacing, or for the same reason you may need a few more pieces to complete the length.
14. Place the remaining piece C at the end and tie off the string as You did in Step 3 with a figure eight, and a secure knot. At this point the string should hold all of the reeds securely enough so that they do not slip out.
The Comb Is Now Complete <see picture>
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V. The Heddles
(SEE ILLUSTRATION ON PAGE 85)
A. Materials Needed for two (2) Heddles.
Note: Both looms may use up to eight (8) heddles each.
1. Four (4) rods of strong wood 2-4cm in diameter, 130cm long.
2. One (1) kilo of strong cotton string divided into four equal balls.
3. A board similar to the rod in width, 15cm high and 60cm long, to serve as a form.
B. Construction
1. Cut a groove 3cm from the end of each rod.
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2. Cut a piece of string 140cm long and tie it in the notch at one end.
3. Tie one end of a ball of string to the same notch.
4. Place the rod on top of the board.
5. Hold the shorter string taut along the top length of the rod. (This string is shown as black in the illustrations).
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6. Steps a thru f show the "looping" process. Pass the ball of string under the board as shown in Step f.
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Every ten loops pass the ball between the rod and the board to fasten it to the rod.
NOTE: The total number of loops made should be even and they should be double the number of spaces in your comb.
7. As the loops are made they are slipped off the board and the board is moved forward.
8. When the desired number of loops is reached, tie both strings in the groove at the other end. <see picture>
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9. Using the second rod, repeat the above except this time when each loop is passed under the board pick up a loop from the first rod and pass the ball of string through that as well.
10. When all the loops are picked up, one heddle is complete. Tie off in the grooved end.
11. Repeat all of the above directions for the second heddle. <see picture>
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The Heddles Are Now Complete
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VI. Machinery for the Harnesses
A. Materials Needed:
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1. Two (2) small pulleys.
2. Light rope, 1cm in diameter.
3. Four (4) hooks, either of heavy wire or appropriately shaped twigs.
4. Two (2) pieces of wood about 3cm x 8cm x 20cm.
5. Heavy rope, 2cm in diameter.
6. A piece of pipe, metal tubing or strong wood 30cm long, and about 1.5 - 2cm in diameter.
B. Foot Pedal Construction
1. Drill holes 2cm in diameter in the top of the two wooden pieces as shown.
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2. Drill holes 2cm in diameter in the side of the same wooden pieces as shown.
C. Machinery Set Up
1. Tie a loop of light rope to each end of the heddles about 10cm in from the end on the top rod.
2. Tie a similar loop in the center of the heddle from the bottom rod.
3. Hang pulleys from the same rod the beater is attached to on the pit loom and to a separate rod laid across pieces N on the self-supporting loom.
4. Cut two pieces of light rope, Tie one end to a hook, thread it over the pulley wheel and tie the other end to another hook.
5. Hang heddles by loop from the hooks. <see picture>
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They should hang evenly and at the same height or slightly higher than the beater and the comb. Adjust lengths of ropes if necessary. <see picture>
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6. Put a secure knot in the ends of two short pieces of heavy rope. Thread them through holes in drilled blocks of wood so that the knots are on the bottom.
7. Thread metal pipe, tube or stick through holes in the side of wooden blocks.
8. Tie two pieces of rope to the ends of the pipe.
9. Tie rope at front of the blocks to the loop in the bottom of the heddles.
10. Tie rope at back of blocks to the cloth beam supports.
The Harness Is Now Functional
NOTE: During warping, the heddles are removed from the machinery for threading.
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MACHINERY IN PLACE ON FRAME LOOM SIDE VIEW
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MACHINERY IN PLACE ON CEILING-SUPPORTED LOOM
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Warp the Foot-Powered Loom
NOTE: Before warping the loom, read Chapter 7: Weaves Patterns and Finishing Touches for help with selecting a weave and/or pattern for a first project. Plain weave, basket weave and/or a striped or plaid pattern are recommended for the first weaving. It is also necessary to have the raddle (p. 115) ready before beginning.
I. Measuring the Warp (See also Warping Board pp. 31 & 124.)
A. Equipment Needed:
Four wooden or metal stakes about 30cm high
B. Measuring Procedure:
1. Place two stakes in the ground: the total distance apart desired for the piece of weaving (2 to 36 meters).
2. Place two more stakes about 30cm inside the two stakes. 3. Tie the beginning of the warp (wound in a ball) to one of the outer stakes. Walk between the stakes wrapping the warp in the pattern illustrated.
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4. Count each length. It helps to tie warp threads in groups of tens when working with a large number of threads. When desired number is reached, untie the beginning of the warp and tie it to the end.
5. Tie a string around the warp where it crosses between the stakes. <see picture>
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6. Ending: when the desired number of warp threads have been counted, untie the beginning end and tie in a weaver's knot to the other end.
7. Changing colour: Warp colours can be changed as was cribed for the frame loom (page 38, Steps a-h).
C. Gather up Warp in a Warp Chain.
1. Slide the loop off at one end of the stakes.
2. Open the loop and put your hand through. Draw up a section of warp and bring it through the first loop to make a second loop. <see picture>
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3. Continue until end is reached. Pull the end through and pull snugly, but not tight.
4. To undo: Take the end out of the last loop and pull; chain will release.
II. Wind the Warp
A. Equipment Needed:
One (1) stick cut to fit the groove in the warp beam. One (1) stick that fits the hole in the end of the warp beam. Several thin sticks - 90cm long.
B. Procedure:
1. Place one of the open loops over the end of the warp beam. Slide to center.
2. Place warp beam on either of the beam supports of the loom. It does not matter which support or which direction the warp is going as long as it can be extended full length. This, of course, will depend on the location of the loom. <see picture>
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(If it is impossible to use the loom supports because of inadequate space, you can set up two forked posts similar to the beam supports on the pit loom (see page 97) in an open space. These can then be left in place permanently for future warping.
3. Prevent the warp from slipping as it is wound by: a) Cutting a stick to fit into the groove in the warp beam. b) Pushing the stick against the warp and into the groove. c) Turning the warp beam in a clockwise direction so that the stick is locked into place by the covering warp. <see picture>
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4. The following steps require two or three people:
a) One person inserts a stick in the hole in the warp beam and slowly turns the beam in a clockwise direction winding on the warp. Every turn or so, he or she inserts a thin stick between the layers of the warp.
b) Another person holds the end of the warp extended at full length, keeping it taut and straight as it is wound.
c) A third person opens the raddle and lays groups of warp threads between the nails. The raddle is closed and tied shut. Then, holding the raddle, he or she guides the warp as it is wound, making sure it is evenly spread. If no other person is available to assist, the raddle can be tied to the other beam. <see picture>
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5. Place the lease sticks (two (2), one meter-lengths of reed or bamboo) in the positions shown just before winding the end of the warp on to the beam. Tie together as shown.
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III. Thread the Heddles and Comb
The following process requires two people if it is to be done quickly and efficiently. (It is possible for one person to perform the task if he or she threads small sections of the warp - - first through the heddle and, then, reversing his or her position, threading the warp through the comb.)
A. Equipment Needed:
Small size crochet hook or bent piece of wire or sharp knife.
B. Threading Procedure:
1. Two people sit facing one another with the two heddles (removed from the loom) and with the comb suspended between them from the backs of two chairs or from the beam supports. <see pictures>
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2. One person holds the warp beam, warp and lease sticks in his or her lap, and faces the heddles. The other person faces the comb.
3. Cut the end loop of the warp after sliding the two lease sticks back to free about 30cm of warp.
4. Take one piece of warp at a time in order check order against lease sticks) and thread it through the heddles following the steps below:
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5. In Plain Weave, every other thread is inserted through a twist in the near heddle. The alternate thread is inserted in a twist in the far heddle. (For other weaves, and in cases where more than two (2) heddles will be used, see Chapter 7).
6. Insert (second person) a crochet hook, needle or sharp knife edge through one of the dents of the comb after the thread is inserted. <see picture>
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Loop the thread over and pull it through. Take care not to miss any threads or spaces, nor should threads cross.
7. Tie every group of ten threads in an overhand knot to prevent them from slipping out of the comb.
8. Put two warp threads through the same heddle at both ends.
IV. Place the Warp on the Loom
1. Place the warp beam on its supports so that the warp extends out to the cloth beam, and unrolls from the top of the beam. <see picture>
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2. Use a pole such as a broomstick to wedge between the hole in the warp beam and the floor, to prevent it from turning.
3. Replace the heddles on the pulleys and attach the footpedals (see pages 96 & 97).
4. Open beater and insert the comb in the grooves. Close it snugly so that the comb is firmly caught and does not bend or move when the warp is pulled.
5. Place the cloth beam in position. Find a stick that fits the hole in the beam. Drill a small hole in the end of it and insert a strong piece of wood. Tie the beam in position as shown above.
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V. Attach the Warp to the Cloth Beam
1. Tie a piece of cord to one end of the beam. Wrap it loosely around the beam twenty to thirty times. Tie off.
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2. Sit down at the loom. Tie each group of ten (10) warp threads to the looped cord on the beam (do not undo the knots made during threading). <see picture> Use the following knot to tie them.
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3. Tighten the tension on the warp when all have been tied on by removing the cloth beam counter clockwise and tying in place.
4. Test the tension of the warp by running your finger across the warp threads.
5. If necessary, release the tension on the warp slightly and retie any loose bunches of warp.
6. Tighten the warp as much as possible.
You Are Now Ready to Weave
How to Weave on a Foot Powered Loom
You will need a shuttle and stretcher for weaving. Consult Chapter 6 The Weaver's Tools, for directions for making these and other helpful tools.
Steps in Weaving on Both Looms
1. To start or end weft: take end and bring through several opposing warps. After weaving several more rows cut off end even with weaving. <see picture>
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2. Wrap weft on the shuttle.
3. Depress right footpedal and feed weft through shed. <see picture>
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4. Place weft at oblique angle to the warp. <see picture>
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5. Depress left footpedal.
6. Push weft firmly into place using the beater. (below)
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7. Feed weft through from opposite side with left foot still depressed.
8. Depress right footpedal. Beat weft into place.
9. Release tension on warp and adjust. <see picture>
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10. Repeat steps 2 to 7 until there is about 10cm of woven fabric.
11. Put the stretcher into place and continue weaving. <see picture>
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12. Release the warp beam and cloth beams and turn them forward one hole when there is no more space between the fabric and the beater. Refasten and continue weaving.
13. Untie the warp from the beam and thread the cloth through the slot in the beam as shown after 1/2 meter of cloth or more has been woven.
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Cross section of cloth beam showing cloth wrapped around.
14. As the warp shifts to the cloth beam on the free-standing loom, it may be necessary to balance the weight of the weaver and the cloth by placing a rock on a board at the back of the loom. <see picture>
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