HAMMERS
For everyday forging, blacksmiths use ball-peened hammers varying from 1¾ lb. to 3 lb. in weight. Some prefer short hafts and some very long ones, but it is vital to have a hammer whose balance suits you. Do not use one just because it happens to be handy. When you have found a suitable hammer, it is wise to keep a spare which matches it as closely as possible both as to head and haft. Then, if the haft breaks in the middle of an important job, you will not be inconvenienced by suddenly having to use a hammer with a different balance Although the blacksmith does not usually make his own hammer heads, most smiths have certain special hammers (Fig. 10) for special purposes which they either make themselves or adapt from standard patterns. Car axle half-shafts are suitable material for making special hammer heads.

TONGS
The beginner must acquire several pairs of ready-made tongs (Fig. 11) for a start. The making of tongs is dealt with in Lesson 37.

COLD CHISELS
Chisels for cutting cold iron (Fig. 12) are made short and thick and are ground a little more acutely than a right angle. They are needed in various widths with both straight and convex cutting edges.

They are made from steel containing about 0.875 per cent carbon; a lower carbon content than the steel used for taps and dies but higher than that used for picks. Steel of the right kind is commonly sold in octagonal (eight sided) bars; it is wise to buy octagonal steel because it cannot be confused with any other metal even if an end of a bar gets rusty and dirty. It does not pay to make cold chisels out of any odds and ends of steel which come to hand, but it is worth stocking several sizes of the proper steel from " to 7" across the flats.
The smith may be asked to make cold chisels for special purposes such as chipping castings in preparation for welders or for other tradesmen, particularly bricklayers. These chisels are made in a variety of shapes and tempered to suit particular needs.

HOT CHISELS
Chisels for cutting hot iron (Fig. 13) should, by contrast, be made long to keep the hand away from the heat of the job, and slender so that the chisel may be driven into the soft metal like a knife into butter. As the chisel becomes hot it is quenched in water after every three or four blows. A wide variety of shapes and sizes should be kept as a great deal of time can be saved by using hot chisels intelligently.

Some smiths use a sharp cutting edge, but others prefer to leave the edge about 1/16" thick.

Hot' chisels should be made from steel containing less carbon than cold chisels - 0.75 per cent is correct or preferably from special alloy steels which are now sold for the purpose. Either of these steels can be had in bars 1" x ½" with rounded edges. Again it is worth while having this special section so that there is no mistaking it. Although these tools get hot in use, most smiths find it an advantage to temper them.

COLD SETS
Cold sets (Fig. 14) are made for use under a sledge-hammer. They are like cold chisels but are even shorter and thicker and are fitted with a handle at one side.

Usually a groove is forged round the middle of the set and either a twisted hazel or an iron rod wrapped round a couple of turns, the ends being left long enough to form a handle. The ends of the hazel rod have an iron ring slipped over them to keep them together; the ends of the iron rod are best welded together in a loop.
Some cold sets are hafted like hammers which give better control on fine work, but the very severe jars they get in normal service are apt to break the haft or sting the hand.

They can be made from a lower carbon steel than cold chisels, the grade used for swages being quite suitable. Them grading of steel is described in Chapter 5.

HOT SETS
Hot sets (Fig. 15) are the sledgehammer version of hot chisels and are made from similar material. They are used with more precision than cold sets, so are best hafted like hammers, as the hot iron on which they are used absorbs the shock to a large extent.

HARDIES
Hardies are chisels which fit into the square hole in the anvil, the work being driven down onto them (Fig. 16). Some smiths make one fairly stout hardie and use it for both hot and cold work, but it is better practice to have two separate ones suitably shaped and tempered for each purpose.
Fig. 16

PUNCHES FOR HOT WORK Punches used for hot work (Fig. 17) can be round, square or any other shape to suit requirements. Like hot chisels, they should be long enough to keep the hand away from the heat, or if large, they can be rodded like sets. A slot punch makes a long narrow hole with rounded ends and removes the minimum amount of metal. This hole can be enlarged or opened out by using a drift (see below) without weakening the bar. Round-ended punches called `bob' punches are used for forming scarfs.

DRIFTS
Drifts (Fig. 18) are pieces of steel of any required'section with a long taper at one end and a short taper at the other; they are driven right through punched holes to enlarge, shape and smooth them.

FULLERS
These tools are like chisels and sets but with rounded noses. They are used for making shoulders before drawing down pins and tenons, for forging special shapes and for drawing the metal in one particular direction.

Small Fullers (Fig. 19) are used in the hand.

Large Fullers (Fig. 20) are rodded.
Bottom Fullers (Fig. 20) fit in the hardy hole of the anvil.

FLATTERS AND SETHAMMERS
These are placed on the work and struck with a sledge. They may have flat or convex faces with sharp or rounded edges, according to the purpose for which they are required (Fig. 21).

SWAGES
Swages are top and bottom tools between which the iron is worked to shape (Fig. 22). The bottom swage fits into the square hole in the anvil and the top swage is handled, and is struck with a sledge- or power hammer. Swages may be of any form required and are made of the lowest carbon tool steel. A bar of 1½ square should be kept especially for this and is also suitable for making large sets.

HAND MANDREL
This tool (Fig. 23) is used either on the face or over the edge of the anvil for drawing out and rounding up small rings and collars.

BOLSTER FOR HARROW TINES
Fig. 24 shows the special bolster used for forming the shoulders on harrow tines. On one side the holes, used for forming the round threaded part, are slightly countersunk to prevent a sudden change of section. The edges of the square holes are raised slightly to produce a concave shoulder on the tine; the prominent edges of these shoulders will then bear hard on the harrow bars when the tine is tightened, thus making a rigid job.