Herbs And Spices

HERBS AND SPICES: THE ART OF SEASONING
Developing skill in seasoning takes a certain amount of time and effort, but its rewards in enjoyable eating make it well worthwhile. It involves familiarizing yourself with the different herbs and spices and conscientiously working on your ability to season all your dishes to a "just right" taste. After some experimentation and practice you will find yourself developing a feel for seasonings that will enable you to produce more consistently good flavour in your meals,

Fortunately, there are some general guidelines in using seasonings. One basic principle is that herbs and spices should be used sparingly - to enhance the natural flavour of foods, rather than to dominate them. (Certain exceptions exist in some heavily spiced but delicious exotic dishes.) On the average, in a dish with 4 to 6 servings, use ½ tea-spoon or less of any spice; and for herbs, use one of these equivalents: 1/3 teaspoon powdered, ½ teaspoon dried coarsely chopped, or 1 tablespoon fresh chopped. (Dried herbs require less because of their more concentrated form and less delicate flavour.) Some herbs and spices are stronger than others and should be used in smaller amounts (see individual listings).

In understanding seasoning, it is also essential to know that much of the best flavour and aroma of herbs and spices comes from aromatic oils contained within them and that ingredients in these oils dissipate with time. Leaf herbs have the most aromatic oil and the best flavour when fresh. In their dried, whole form, the more delicate and refined qualities in the flavour have been lost; and the dried, finely chopped or powdered forms have the least refined flavour of all because more surfaces are available from which the volatile elements of the oil can escape.

Some herbs lose flavour more rapidly than others; for example, chervil, borage, burnet, and summer savory must be used fresh, because most of their flavour is lost In drying. You can, however, get more flavour out of many dried herbs if you reconstitute them in some liquid to be used In your recipe (water, wine, stock melted butter, or oil), letting them stand for ten minutes or longer before using spices and herb seeds are generally used in their dried form (except ginger), but often here it is preferable to purchase them whole and grind, powder, or mash them when needed instead of buying the ground form (black and white pepper­corns, nutmeg kernels, cardamom seed pods, and mace places are available in better stores).
Ground spices and herbs are likely to deteriorate in flavour and should be replaced at least once a year. In spite of the decorative spice racks available, spices and dried herbs retain their flavour best when stored in a cool, dark place. For the most dependable and flavourful results in your recipes, always buy the best quality of commercial herbs and spices available.

In increasing your seasoning repertoire, you will find that the listings in this section will give you a broad range from which to choose. Quite a few of the herbs must be used fresh, and because they are generally not available have to be home grown. This is not difficult, requires only limited space, and is well worth the effort. Your garden might include a number of the more common herbs which are really best fresh-like basil, chives, marjoram, rosemary, tarragon, and thyme - as well as some of the herbs that must be used fresh, which include anise leaves, borage, burnet, chervil, cilantro, scented geraniums, lemon balm, lemon verbena, nasturtium, savory, sorrel, and violets. The following listings will also give you general information about the foods used with the various herbs and spices. To find more specific information on this subject, get some good herb and spice cookbooks from the library. Try some of the recipes, and then begin improvising on your own.

 

LISTING OF HERBS AND SPICES

Allspice (Pimento officinalis). Tastes like a blend of cloves, cinnamon, and nutmeg, but is actually a single spice ground, from the under-ripe dried berry of a tropical, evergreen myrtle tree, native to the West Indies and Central America.
Uses. cakes, cookies, pies, puddings, fruit desserts, pickling liquids, spiced syrups, spiced beef, stews, pot roasts, red cabbage, and sweet potatoes.

Anise (Pimpinella anisum).
Leaves and seeds have a licorice flavour.
Uses.
1) fresh leaves in salads;
2) whole or crushed seeds added to cookies, cakes, sweet rolls, court bouillon for fish, various fish sauces.

Balm or Lemon Balm (Melissa officinalis).
Fresh leaves have a refreshing lemon flavour and aroma.
Uses; fruit or vegetable salads, drinks (such as tea, fruit punches, and wine punches), sauces, egg dishes, chicken, and fish.

Basil (Ocimum basiicum).
Used fresh or dried, flavour reminiscent of mint and cloves combined.
Seems to sweeten tomatoes, thus very good in all tomato dishes (including tomato juice, soup, and even spaghetti sauce).
Other uses: eggs and cheese dishes, especially scrambled eggs, salads, meats, chicken; fish, sausage mixtures, soups, salad dressings, bland vegetables like eggplant.
Use with care; a dominant herb whose flavour gets stronger with cooking.

Bay or Laurel Leaf (Laurus nobilis).
Aromatic and slightly bitter flavour.
Well known for its uses in meats, game, fish, poultry, stuffings, soups, sauces, and marinades for game (especially venison).
To add subtle flavour to bland vegetables such as eggplant, potatoes, and carrots, put some bay leaf in their cooking water.
Fresh or dried, use bay leaf sparingly, for it is strong (1 leaf or less for 6 to 8 servings).

Borage (Borago officinalis).
Only usable fresh because its refreshing cucumber-like flavour is not retained after drying.
Uses:
1) tender young leaves in salads, cold drinks, fish sauces, or cooked as a vegetable like spinach;
2) the beautiful, peacock-blue flowers as a garnish in punches and other iced drinks, and in salads, or in candied form as decoration on cakes.
Since it is not generally available, this herb must be home grown.

Barnet or Salad Burnet (Sanguisorba minor).
Has a nutty flavour that hints of cucumber, and is similar to borage in its taste and uses.
Add the fresh, tender young leaves to cold drinks, salads, soups, cream cheese, vinegar; or use as a garnish like parsley. Fresh leaves essential; must be home grown.

Capers (Capparis spinosa). The pickled unopened flower buds of the caper bush, a spiny Mediterranean Shrub. They taste tiny, sharp picides and add piquancy to salads, canapes, meat gravies, and fish sauces.

Caraway (Carum carvi).
Seeds have a characteristic, pun. gent flavour. Uses. breads, rolls, cheeses, sauerkraut, cab. bags dishes including Bole slaw, soups, goulashes, and stews. The crushed seeds can enhance the flavour of salads or vegetables.
Use cautiously because the flavour is strong and turns bitter with long cooking (add to stews for the last half hour of cooking).

Cardamom (Elettarla cardranomum).
Seeds come from the dried fruit of the cardamom plant, found in India and other tropical areas. Their flavour is slightly glngerish, leaving a medicinal aftertaste.
Uses.
1) whole seed pod added to hot punches, spiced wines, marinades, pickling liquids, demitasse or regular coffee (1-2 pods per cup);
2) ground­ Seeds in bread, pastries, cookies, fruit salads; Mexican, Spanish, and East Indian dishes.

Cassia or Chinese Cinnamon (Cinnamomum cassia).
Related to cinnamon and closely resembles it in taste and appearance (though its flavour is stronger and not as sweet as cinnamon's). Much of the cinnamon sold is cassia, rather than the more expensive true cinnamon.
Uses: the same as cinnamon. (The spice cassia is unrelated to the cassias described is Part 2 under Senna.)

Cayenne Pepper (Capsicum fruteseens var. longum).
Comes from the ground, dried ripe red pepper pods of a small tropical shrub of the Capsicum family. This ground red pepper, combined with yeast and flour, is baked into a hard cake, which is then ground into the finished spice.
Uses: in curries and chili powders; in small amounts added to bland foods like eggs and cream sauce.

Celery (Apium graveolens). Its leaves and stalks are well-known additions to soups, stocks, stews, and many other savoury dishes.

Chervil (Anthriscus cerefolium).
Has a delicate, subtle flavour with a slight hint of anise. Must be used fresh; requires home growing,
Uses: soups, salads, sauces, omelets, soufes, chicken, veal, fish, and shellfish dishes. Continental serapes for chervil soup and various chervil sauces are said b be delicious.
Flavour does not withstand long cooling.

Chili Powder (Capsicum frutescens).
A blend of dried powdered Mexican chili peppers from several varieties of capsicum. Other spices such as coriander, cumin, and oregano are added to most chili powders.

Chives (Album echoenoprasum).
The dark green tubular chive leaves with their mild onion flavour are an attractive, flavourful seasoning in salads, baked potatoes, omelets, and sauces.

Cinnamon (Cinnamomum zeylaniaum).
The dried inner bark of the branches of a small, tropical, evergreen laurel tree. The bark is peeled off and as the pieces are dried, they curl up into quills.
Uses:
1) quills in spiced punches, teas, cooked fruit, pickling liquids;
2) ground spice in sweet baked goods, cooked fruit, and some meat and fish dishes.

Cloves (Syzyglani aromaticum or Caryophyilus aromatious). The spicy, dried, unopened flower buds of the tropical evergreen clove tree.
Uses.
1) whole cloves in stewed fruit, hot spiced drinks, pickling liquids, marinades;
2) ground spice in breads, cookies, spice cakes, pies, fruit dishes, curries, and some meat dishes.

Coriander (Coriandrum sativum).
Seeds when dried have a sweet taste reminiscent of lemon peel and sage. Fresh coriander leaves with their slightly bitter taste are known as Chinese parsley or cilantro and are featured in Mediterranean, Latin American, Spanish, and oriental cooking.
Uses:
1) whole seed in hot spiced drinks, marinades, pickling liquids;
2) ground seed in breads, pastries, puddings, cream sauces, fruit sauces, chili sauce, curries, and other exotic dishes;
3) fresh leaves in meat and poultry dishes, chicken or pea soups, and as a garnish like parsley.

Cumin (Cuminum eyminum).
Seed is similar to that of caraway in appearance and flavour; however it is lighter in colour and its flavour is stronger and less refined.
Uses of whole and ground seed: cheeses, sauerkraut and cabbage dishes, barbecue and spaghetti sauces, chili and curry powders, and bland dishes like scrambled eggs, egg

Curry Powder.
Not derived from a single plant; it is the blended mixture of various spices such as cardamom, cayenne, cloves, coriander, cumin, dill, fenugreek, ginger, mace, pepper, and turmeric. Because there is no standard recipe for curry powder, the number of spices included and the amounts used vary with each spice manufacturer.

Dill (Anethum graveolens).
Both seeds and leaves are used. Dill's pungent, characteristic flavour comes through in both forms, but is less pronounced and more delicate in the leaves.
Uses of both seeds and leaves; cream cheese, sour cream dips, sauces, soups, salads, salad dressings, eggs, cheese, pickles, sauerkraut, poultry, and especially fish. The leaves, also known as dill weed, add an attractive green accent to light-coloured foods.

Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare).
Has a licorice flavour like that of anise but weaker.
Uses;
1) whole seed added to bread, rolls, cakes, cookies, and even apple pie;
2) fresh leaves in salads, soups, sauces. Fennel is excellent with fish, for it aids digestion of oily fish like mackerel or eel; and if used in fish poaching liquid, it helps to keep fish firm.
Fresh leaves have to be home grown.

Fenugreek (Trigonella foenum-graecum).
Seed smells like celery but has a more bitter taste.
Ground seed's primary use is as an ingredient, in curries.

Filé (Sassafras variifolium).
Made from young powdered sassafras leaves, filé or filet powder is used in thickening and flavouring creole gumbos.

Garlic (Allium satlvum).
Its discreet use enhances many foods. Best known as a meat seasoning - fresh-cut clove rubbed on or inserted in meats (especially delicious with lamb). Mediterranean cooking goes far in exploiting the culinary possibilities of garlic.

Geraniums (Pelargonium species).
There are about 75 species of scented-leaf geraniums with different fragrances. Those best for culinary purposes are the almond, apple, apricot, coconut, lemon, licorice, lime, nutmeg, orange, peach, peppermint, and rose-scented ones. Uses of leaves: In poundcakes, jellies, compotes, custards, and even salad dressing.

Ginger (Zingiber ofecinale).
Comes from the root of the ginger plant, a beautiful tropical lily.
Fresh ginger is best peeled and sliced thin or grated and added to stews, sauces, salad dressings, and oriental dishes.
Fresh-cut ginger rubbed on fish removes fishy odours.
Ground ginger finds use in gingerbread, cakes, coolies, pies, sausages. curries, and various exotic dishes.

Horseradish (Armoracla lapathlfolfa).
The freshly grated root, combined with vinegar or lemon juice, is used as a condiment with meat. It is also an ingredient in many sauces.
Fresh root will not keep more than three months.

Hyssop (Hyssopus officinalis). Fresh or dried, hyssop leaves with their bitter, slightly minty flavour add interest to fruit cocktails, salads, soups, meats (especially stews), poultry, and rich, fatty fish.

Juniper (Juniperus communis).
Dried juniper berries with their spicy, somewhat bittersweet flavour find use in marinades, sauerkraut, cabbage, and bean dishes, and in seasoning wild game and other meats.

Leek (Allium porrum).
Leeks with their mild, sweet onion flavour are excellent in soups, salads, and stews or cooked as a vegetable. They provide the base for the French soup vichyssoise.

Lemon Verbena (Aleysia triphylla).
Its fresh lemon-flavoured leaves are used in fruit salads, jellies, and custards, and as a garnish in iced drinks. Since its leaves are best used fresh, it requires home growing.

Lovage (Levisticum officinale).
Flavour similar to celery's but stronger.
Uses:
1) tender young leaves, fresh or dried, in soups, salads, sauces, stews;
2) seeds, crushed or whole in cakes, candies, soups, salads, stews, and roasts;
3) stems, when blanched, can be eaten raw like celery or sliced into soups or stews.
Use carefully since lovage is somewhat stronger than other herbs.

Mace (Nutmeg tree-Myrlstlca fragrans).
Is the lacy dried ant or outer covering of the seed of the tropical nutmeg tree. The kernel inside the seed is the spice nutmeg. Mace's flavour is somewhat like nutmeg's but is stronger.
Uses in whole or powdered form: cakes, cookies, cooked fruit, chocolate puddings, and other desserts. It is often combined with bay leaf, cloves, and onions in seasoning savoury dishes.

Marigold (Calendula officinalis).
Often used as a less­expensive substitute for saffron, fresh or dried petals give subtle flavour and golden colour to seafood, soups, stews, puddings, rice, and omelets.
The dried petals, softened in hot milk, can be added to the batters of cakes, breads. and cookies. The fresh, tender young leaves are good in salads.

Marjoram (Majorana hortensis).
Strong, sweet, sage-like flavour.
Used to season meats (makes duck, pork, and goose seem. less heavy), poultry, salad dressings, vegetables, and legumes.
The fresh, finely chopped leaves are nice in salads.
Use this dominant herb sparingly.

Mints (Mentha species).
Fresh or dried mint leaves find use with lamb, veal, coleslaw, salads, peas, zucchini, cream cheese, in mint sauce, and as a garnish for cold drinks.
Besides peppermint and spearmint, there are also pineapple. apple, and orange mints which can be used in fruit dishes and drinks.

Mustard (Brassica nigra and B. hirta).
The appetite-stimulating mustard preparations used as a condiment with meat are all made from the dry powdered seeds of black or white mustard plus a liquid medium like water, vinegar, or wine.
Dry mustard powder can also be used as a spice to flavour all types of savoury dishes.
Whole mustard seeds of the white variety serve as seasoners too in pickles, sausages, salads, and vegetables. White mustard leaves are used in salads and cooked as a vegetable.

Nasturtium (Tropaeolum magus).
Fresh leaves and flowers, with their peppery flavour similar to watercress, are good in salads or chopped and combined with cream cheese or butter in canapes and sandwiches. The unripe seed pods can be pickled and used as a substitute for capers.

Nutmeg (Myristica fragrans).
The dried kernel from inside the seed of the beautiful, tropical evergreen nutmeg tree. Best freshly grated. Uses: spice cakes, cookies, fruit pies, desserts, stewed fruits, milk drinks, spice blends, and in discreet amounts in some savoury dishes.

Oregano (Origanum vulgare).
Is a wild marjoram whose taste Is sharper and spicier than marjoram. It is a common ingredient in Spanish, Mexican, and Italian dishes; may also be used in the same foods as marjoram.

Paprika (Capsicum frutescens). Comes. from the dried ripe pods of the largest and mildest varieties of capsicum shrubs (see also cayenne and chili powder). Different varieties of paprika vary in quality and pungency; some of
the best come from Hungary.
Uses: in goulashes, and to add colour and flavour to many bland, savoury dishes.

Parsley (Petroselinun sativum). Well known as a garnish and seasoning, parsley underlines the flavour of foods without being dominant and it tones down the odor of strong vegetables like onions. Combines well with other herbs,

Pepper (Piper nigrum).
Both black and white peppercorns are the dried berries of the tropical pepper vine. The black comes from underripe berries which have been dried and cured; the white, from dried ripe berries whose dark outer shell has been removed White pepper is not as strong as black, but its flavour is finer and more aromatic.
Best freshly ground, both black and white pepper enhance all savoury foods. White is often used in light-coloured sauces.

Poppy Seed (Papaver rhoeae).
These little dark seeds come from the corn poppy, not the opium poppy.
Uses: as a topping on cookies, breads, rolls; in cake fillings, fruit salads, canapes, and sweet vegetables.

Rose (Rosa species).
The delicate, fruity flavour of rose hips can enhance fruit dishes and drinks.
Both the hips and the petals are made into jellies.
Do not use roses that have been treated with pesticides or pesticide-containing fertilizers.

Rosemary (Rosmarinus offinalis).
Fresh or dried, rosemary has a pungent, pine-like, sweet but savoury taste.
It is excellent in flavouring meats, fish, and chicken dishes (especially good with lamb), and some vegetables like peas and spinach.
Use sparingly, because it is a dominant herb.

Rue (Ruta graveolens).
A favourite Balkan seasoning, rue's bitter, fresh, chopped leaves are used sparingly in cheeses, salads, sauces, stews, and vegetables.
Rue can produce allergic reactions similar to poison ivy in some individuals, so It is best not to season dishes with it for company.

Safflower or Mexican Saffron (Carthamus tinetorius).
Unrelated to saffron, but the dried and powdered orange-red florets are used as a saffron substitute.

Saffron (Crocus sativus).
The most delicately flavoured of all spices. Imparts golden colour and a beautiful flavour to rice dishes, fish and shellfish soups (such as bouillabaisse), poultry, bread, cakes, and cookies.
It aids the digestion of rich meats like pork, duck, and goose.
The most expensive of all spices, saffron fortunately needs to be used only in very small quantities in order to work its' magic.

Sage (Salvia officinalis).
Pungent, aromatic flavour when dried, but delicate and somewhat minty in the fresh leaves.
Best known for its use with meats, poultry, fish, and in stufngs. omelets, and cheese.
Makes fatty meats and fish (like pork, goose, duck, eel, mackerel) seem less heavy - for this purpose, place sage leaves directly on top of meat or fish, or in cooking liquid or sauce, or in accompanying stuffing.
A strong herb. use with care; also tends to be bitter with long cooling.
Clary sage and pineapple saga varieties are also used in cooking for similar purposes.

Savory (Summer savory - Satureja hortensis; Winter savory - S. montana).
Both summer and winter savory have a pleasant, piquant flavuor, though winter savory is stronger and more resinous.
Used similarly, both are best known for their use with vegetables and all types of beans.
Known as "bean herb" in Cernuany, the savouries not only give flavour but cut down on the gas produced by beans.
They also eliminate the strong odours in cabbage and turnips if you put 2 to 3 leaves in the cooking water.
Best used fresh; must be home grown.

Sesame Seeds (Sesamum orientate).
Have a sweet nutty favour and are used as a topping for breads, coolies, vegetables, and casseroles.

Shallots (Allium ascalonicum).
Have a subtle, delicate onion flavour.
Used in many French sauce recipes and as a meat or poultry accompaniment.
Expensive and not generally available, they can be easily grown at home.

Sorrel (Garden sorrel - Rumex acetosa and French sorrel - R. scutatus),
The fresh, slightly acid leaves of both species can be used for culinary purposes, but French sorrel is preferable. Their sour-flavoured leaves add a desirable tartness to salads, vegetables (particularly cabbage, lettuce, and spinach), and soups, especially cream soups.

Sweet Cicely or European Sweet Cicely (Myrrhis odorata).
Has a sweet, anise-like flavour. Fresh or dried leaves enhance the flavour of desserts, fruit salads, fruit juices, salads, delicate soups, all root vegetables, and cabbage.
Should be more widely used as a healthful sugar substitute.
If 2 to 4 teaspoons of dried herb or the fresh leaves and stalks are added in cooking stewed fruit or fruit for pies, only half the normal amount of sugar will be needed.
Dry seeds used in cakes and cookies.
Note: This plant is unrelated to the sweet cicely described in Part 2.

Tarragon (Artemisia dracunculus).
Has a licorice flavour that is both sweet and slightly bitter.
One of the important herbs in French cooking-indispensable in béarnaise sauce.
Uses: eggs, Salads, sauces, fish, meat, poultry, and excellent in vinegars for salads. Fresh leaves are best and can be preserved by holding them in vinegar until needed.

Thyme or Garden Thyme (Thymus vulgaris).
One of the strongest herbs with its pungent, clove-like flavour; use with care.
An essential herb in French cooking.
Principally used in meats. poultry, fish, stuffings, egg and cheese dishes, salads, vegetables, and vegetable juices.
Helps in the digestion of fatty foods (including pork, goose, duck, sausage, and fatty fish) and stimulates the appetite.
Fresh leaves of lemon thyme (Thymus citriodorus), another species of thyme, find use in fruit drinks, salads, and desserts.

Turmeric (Curcuma longa).
Has a bitter, somewhat gingery taste; use with care. Comes from the dried root of a gipant in the ginger family. Principally used in small quantities to give golden colour to foods such as curries, mustards, mayonnaise, pickles, and sauces.
Sometimes substituted for saffron.

Vanilla (Vanilla planifolia).
Comes from the long pod of a tropical vine.
To develop flavour, the pods (usually called vanilla beans) are fermented and cured for six months before marketing.
Extract is prepared by macerating beans in alcohol solution.
Make your own extract simply by keeping a vanilla bean in a little brandy flavour will improve with age. '

Violets (Sweet violet - Viola odorata; Blue violet - V. papiilonacea).
Leaves used in puddings, jellies, and salads; flowers in salads or in candied form as a decorative garnish for desserts.

Watercress (Nasturtium officinale).
Fresh leaves may be used in salads or as a garnish, raw or deep fried
Also in chopped form, added to appetizers, eggs, cheese, and fish.