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BOX TRAP TO CATCH ANIMAL ALIVE: A double-ended pen with self-locking doors. This strong pen of the size required is made with both ends left open.

The pen is completely roofed over and in the centre one of the cross stick across the roof is squared on one side and on its under surface. The cross pieces at the extreme ends are secured extra strongly to take 2 drop doors. A couple inch beyond the line of the side walls and about 3 inches from the end uprights very strong stakes are driven into the ground at an angle leaning away from the line of the pen.

The 2 doors are made and hinged with loops of rope or strong vine to the end crossbars, across either end of the pen. On the outside 2 supports sticks are crossed about 7" to 10" above the roof of the pen. The release sticks are sharpened at one end to a chisel edge and the bait stick is cut with a squared step about 18" below its top. (The square face at the lower end.) 10" to 12" above this and parallel to the first cut, 2 square-nicked cuts are made with the squared face on the top side of the cut.

The trap is set by putting the bait stick between the crossbars and engaging the squared cut of the bait stick with the squared face of the crossbar. The chisel end of one of the release sticks is placed in one of the top nicks of the baited stick and the other end between 2 of the crossbars of the door. The release stick sits on the support sticks as a fulcrum. This is repeated at the other door.

Both doors are now raised and any disturbance of the bait stick will release the support sticks and the doors will drop. The locking device is done by cutting 2 heavy poles about 8" to 10" longer than the trap is wide. These are laid across the top end of either door. When the door starts to drop the logs roll down the falling doors and jam against the outward leaning stakes thus wedging the doors tight.

PORTABLE BOX TRAP #1: BOX TRAP TO CATCH ANIMALS ALIVE WITH EXTERNAL RELEASE:

A box is made exactly similar to the box trap on the page. A hole is bored in the roof 3 inches from the closed-in end. The one below this, is another eye, and the hooked portion for the bait some 8 or 10 inches below this lower eye. With this release the cross wire is placed through the lower eye, with the top eye above the roof of the box.

The bait is fastened to the hook inside the box and the release wire secure with its own eye to the top eye and its farther end lying long ways along the roof with the end itself in a small hole through the bottom of the drop door, and in such a position that it holds the door up. When the animal takes the bait and drags backward with it, the top end of the bait wire is forced to the rear, and so withdraws the wire at the door from the hole and allows the door to stop, imprisoning the animal.

PORTABLE BOX TRAP #2: TO CATCH ANIMALS ALIVE INTERNAL RELEASE:
A stout box of a size suitable for the animal to be trapped is made. To one end a sliding door is fitted.

This door MUST slide up and down easily between 2 grooves. On the inside of the door and near the lower end a small hole is bored for about 1/4 inch in depth. On the roof of the box, about 3 inches from the closed-in end, a hole about 1 inch diameter is bored right through the wood.

The release mechanism is made by taking a piece of stiff wire (8) gauge, bending an eye in it at the end, an another eye at about 6 inches lower down. And immediately below this lower eye bending the wire in a wide hook and cutting it off at the end of the hook through the top eye another short piece of wire is passed. (With the eye in the centre of the hole in the roof) and the short piece of wire lying parallel to the end of the box, it is secured in position with a staple at either end.

Another piece of wire is fastened to the lower eye now inside the box. This piece of wire MUST be just as long that when the hook is slightly forward. The piece of wire will engage in the hole which was bored in a short distance in the foot of the door. The trap is baited by securing the bait to the U-shaped hook on the lower end of the wire inside the trap.

The free end of the inner piece of wire is placed inside the hole at the lower end of the door. When the animal disturbs the bait the wire holding the door is withdrawn, and the door drops imprisoning the animal.

PORTABLE BOX WITH INSIDE STICK RELEASE # 3: BOX TRAP TO CATCH ANIMALS ALIVE.
There are occasions when a piece of wire may be unobtainable the this internal stick release can be improvised.

The box is made as for the preceding portable box traps, complete with sliding door. For the release 3 forked sticks are used with the bait stick, which should have a fork at one end. The length of the 3 forked stick should be such that 2 of them are equal & about 3/4 quarters the height of the inside of the box, and the third should be about 1/2 the height.

The fork a the end of the bait stick is so trimmed that one end of the fork is about an 1 inch shorter that the other. Setting is done by placing the bottom of the door on the longer of the 2 arms of the fork bait stick with the shorter arm in the inside of the door.

The 2 longer forks are set near the end of the box, their forks holding the far end of the bait stick a few inches from its very end. The shorter forked stick is placed with its fork over the farthest end of the bait stick, and its other end against the roof.

The bait is secured to the bait stick, near the first pair of fork. When the animal takes the bait, it either disturbs the setting of the forked sticks which hold the slide door up, or it pushes the forked end of the bait stick inwards & allows the door to drop.

LOG ROOFED PEN BOX TYPE BAITED TRAP FOR CACHING ANIMAL ALIVE: A pen of adequate size is made. The pen is built with two sides and one end only across the closed end a strong cross bar is made and secured. Release of the log weighted roof is by means of toggle and bait stick almost exactly similar to the toggle release of the log fall. A forked stick is stood upright a few inches from one side of the trap at the open end. Across the fork a supporting stick is placed with the end of the roof resting on it.

To the far end of this supporting stick a length of cord is fastened and to the end of this a short toggle stick is tied. The end of the toggle stick is pressed against the bait stick, which in turns is pressed against the bait stick, which in turn is pressed against the stakes opposite and at the far end of the pen. Disturbance of the bait stick releases its engagement with the toggle stick which in turn releases the support stick and the door falls heavily. Ouch! Imprisoning the animal..

TRAP FOR BIG GAME: Trap which is secured by 2 pegs knocked into a tree with a third peg under their ends held in position by the pull of the heavy wooden pole. When the game runs into the noose the peg is pulled out and the pole drops, tightening the noose by its weight.

BOX TRAP FOR CATCHING SMALL ANIMALS ALIVE:

FALLING CAGE FIGURE 4 RELEASE: A cage either of sticks lashed to a pyramidal or other suitable shape of box wood or netting is made of adequate size. Release is made by means of the figure 4 release. This an excellent trap for ground feeding birds & if the ground is baited with grain or small fruits it is a certain trap for pigeons. The upright stick is cut with a chisel edge at one end, and where it will cross the top of the upright, a nick is cut parallel to the chisel edge.

The bait stick has a nick undercut at the thickest end, and at the place where it will cross the upright it has a cut made with a square faced a the end of the cut farthest from the undercut nick. Setting is done by standing the upright in front of the trap and placing the support stick with its nick on the chisel edge of the upright and the upper end supporting the raised edge of the box. The chisel end of the support stick is placed in the undercut nick at the end of the bait stick. The squared cut in the bait stick should now engage with a squared face of the support stick and with the baited end of the stick well under the trap.

BOLA: A weapon that Eskimos use against birds. Stones are wrapped in circles of material and 90cm (3 feet) lengths of string knotted around each, the other ends of the string being firmly tied together. Held at the joined end they are twirled around the head. When released they fly through the air covering a wide area. The Gauchos of South America use the same weapon and variations have been used in combat.

The bola wraps around a bird in flight or tangles around an animal's leg or neck, bringing it to the ground and giving the hunter a chance to kill it.

BOLA USE AND MAKING: One can improvise a bola a missile weapon consisting of stones attached to the ends of thongs. The Spanish and Eskimos use a device of this type also consisting of several cords about a yard long with a small weight at the extremity of each.

The BOLA is grasped at the centre from which all cords radiate and the weights are twirled above the head. Twirled at flying birds the spinning strings often twist around one or more and bring them to the grounds.

 

ALL BIRDS ARE EDIBLE:
ALL BIRDS ARE GOOD TO EAT. When they are moulting and unable to fly, it is not difficult to corner them on foot. Large flocks may be also captured occasionally by driving them into nets or traps. Roosting or nesting birds can be secured by a noose fastened to the end of a pole.

Birds can also be caught in fine snares placed where they nest, feed or congregate. Dead-fall immobilise them too. You bait them either with flesh or grains. Even the riper eggs or any eggs it may be possible to secure are nourishing. If one has a continue access to a large colony at nesting time one way to be assured of fresh eggs is to mark whatever is already in the nest perhaps removing all but a few if conditions seem to justify it.

SUCCESSFUL BIRD TRAPS: These traps also work well with birds.

A stick fence put up in a narrowing spiral and baited will sometimes catch in its centre fowl such as quail. Geese can be bagged in a ditch some four feet deep into which they are led by bait such as wild grain. When one rushes suddenly at the geese, they try to fly but are unable to spread their wings. Go slowly then kill fast.

Turkeys are also taken by the use of bait one ruse consisting of attracting them head down under a low fence. Once turkeys so pen themselves and upon finishing their pecking raise their long necks it often takes them too long a time to figure how to react.

SCAVENGERS EASILY CAUGHT:Gulls and other scavenger birds can be easily although unpleasantly caught by a man who is desperate enough for food. A short stick of bone sharpened at both ends is secured in the middle by a line, preferably tied to something limber such as a sapling and is then concealed in some bait such as a decomposed fish.

This also work for WOLVES but the trick is to use a pliable bone and bend it as much as possible then tie it together, a small incision in the 3/4 part would help to secure the line so it does not slip. Once the wolf gobbles up this good size meatball, the bone once in the intestine will spring open and perforate the innards of the wolves thus kill him. But this would be to get rid of him since he will not die fast.

CATCHING DUCKS: An ancient way for capturing ducks and one which can be varied almost indefinitely to fit the circumstances is set in motion by the tossing of dozens of gourds into a lake. The water fowl will become accustomed to them by the time you stole in the water head hidden in the gourd which has been perforated to permit seeing and breathing.

The hunter advances slowly toward a flock at about the same speed with which the shell might drift. Starting at the outside, you pull ducks quickly downward by their feet twist their neck and shove them one by one into a bag at your side.

GETTING BIRDS WITHOUT GUNS: Game birds such as Ptarmigan and Grouse, promise feasts for anybody lost in the wilderness especially as a few stones or sticks are often the only weapons needed. If one misses the first time such fowl usually will afford a second and even a third try. When they fly they usually go only but a short distance and may be successfully followed particularly if this is done casually and at such a tangent that it would seem that one were going to stroll on past.

ANY BIRDS AS A MATTER OF FACT WILL FURNISH GOOD EATING IN AN EMERGENCY. The only difference is that some are tenderer, plummer and to different taste better flavoured then others.

BIRD TRAP & MOUSE ETC: A stake is set either on a stone or some place where it will lie flat and secure even upon a floating tree if big enough will do. You attach to it one of those big mouse traps and the bird in taking the bait, springs the trap which cuts into its skull killing it instantly.

BIRDS TRAP POACHER METHOD: For killing pheasants, pigeons and grass eating birds (turkey chicken) is to soak split peas and then put thin wire through them, leaving about 1/2 inch of wire projected from either side of the peas. The birds pick up the peas. The wire pierces their crops and they die quickly. This is also illegal, only use it in Survival.

UPLAND GAME BIRDS: Grouse and Partridge are most often found roosting in thickets, sunning on side slopes or feeding on the ground. Usually these birds will not fly very far when frightened and therefore it is better to flush them out, wait for them to land before shooting them. If their roosting area can be found they are snared easily by using a pole with a wire noose attached to the end.

Be certain and take the partridge closest to you. This way you will not frighten the others. Spruce Grouse Ptarmigan in the Arctic frequently remain motionless thereby seeking to avoid detection. Some may be killed by throwing sticks and rocks.

WATER FOWL: Birds such as Ducks, Geese and Coots are usually more difficult to approach than upland game. They can be shot taking into consideration the way the wind and current will take them. If Geese or Ducks are found during the moulting period it may be possible to run them to the ground. Don't overlook the eggs or the very young.

OJIBWA BIRD SNARE: For the bird to obtain bait it MUST land on the perch which is held in place by tension of the knot. Weight of the bird releases the tension on the knot and the weight on the side of the post pulls the snare tight on the birds legs.

NOOSE SNARE STICKS FOR SMALL BIRDS: A straight stick 3 to 4 feet long is selected. Onto this many fine nooses, each between 1/2" to 1" in size of horse hair are tied securely and the stick is then tied with the nooses uppermost to a shrub or small tree which is a favourite resting place for small birds. They alight on the stick and their feet become entangled in the snares. One or 2 birds so caught will call others to them and in a short time 7 or 8 birds will all be snared on the noose stick. BBQ time. This snare is illegal.

BIRD TRAPS: NETS: A fine net stretched between the trees where birds usually roost is one of the simplest ways of catching them. Instead of a net, fine twine cris-crossed between trees across their flight path will damage birds which fly into it.

BIRD LIME: Liming is an ancient way of catching small birds. Boil holly leaves and any starchy grain in water and simmer until you have a gooey mess. Spread this on the branches or other perching places before the birds come home to roost and they will get stuck in it when they alight.

SUSPENDED SNARES: Hang a line of snares across a stream a little above water lever. This works best when set among reeds & rushes.

BAITED HOOKS: Fish hooks buried in fruit or other food can be an effective way of catching birds. The hook gets caught in the bird's throat.

NOOSE STICKS: Tie many fine nooses 1.25 - 2.5cm (1/2-1 in) in diameter, close together along a stick or a branch, use horsehair preferably by any strong material will do. Place the stick in a favourite roosting or nesting spot with the nooses uppermost. Birds become entangled when they alight. Do not remove as soon as on bird is caught. It will attract other birds and you will soon have several.

FIGURE 4 TRAP: This mechanism (see fig. 4 dead-fall) can be used with a log cabin type cage, made from a pyramid of sticks tied together, which is balanced over the bait. For small birds you can use a quick method of making the cage.

BIRD CAGE: Lay all the sticks in position then lay another two sticks, the same length as the bottom ones, on top and tie them tightly to the bottom layer, tight enough to keel all the others in place. Larger animals will soon break out of this and for them each stick MUST be individually tied in. Experiment with different ways of making a cage. You may have a suitable box or large tin which would do just as well. It is also possible to prop the raised edge of the cage on a single stick tied to a long line.

Take the other end of the line and hide some distance away. If you hold the string tight, you can snatch the prop away as soon as bird ventures under the cage. Bingo! Broadcast bait around and under the cage. This works best in areas where birds seem plentiful.

TOGGLE RELEASE NET TRAP: A net laid on the ground and baited to attract birds has lines from the corners to a springy sapling overhead. A tension line extends to a toggle mechanism (see previous trap) notched on to a horizontal bar and operated by a flat bait stick. Set the bait stick off the ground & only just resting against the lower end of the toggle. This trigger mechanism needs to be extremely sensitive if a small bird's weight is to set it off. Bait scattered across the net will attract birds which will be caught when one steps on the bait bar.

REMEMBER: If you set traps in a training exercise MAKE SURE that they are clearly marked so that they are not set off by other people. Spear and dead-fall traps should be supervised to keep people away for they could inflict serious injury or kill. ALL traps should be dismantles when the exercise is over.

HUNTING BIRDS:

RUNNING NOOSE: A noose attached to a long pole is an effective way of pulling roosting birds down from lower branches. Make a note of roosting and nest sites- REMEMBER that droppings will help guide you to them and if they are within reach return stealthily on nights when there's sufficient light to see them. Slip the noose over the bird and pull, tightening the noose and pulling the bird down at the same time.

STALKING WATERFOWL: You can get close by getting in the water and camouflaging yourself around the head with reeds and other vegetation. Very cautiously, approach an area where fowl nest or birds are regularly seen. But REMEMBER that birds especially large ones such as geese and swans can be quite ferocious in defence of themselves.

ANOTHER HUNTING TECHNIQUE: In some parts of the world is to use a large gourd worn on the head as cover. Holes are made on one side to breathe and see through & with the gourd just sufficiently above the water the hunter floats with the current among the birds. To prepare the birds several other gourds are thrown into the river first. Having got among the wildfowl the hunter grabs the unsuspecting birds from below and strangles them underwater.

PIT TRAP: Find or dig a hole about 90cm (3 feet) deep in an area where ground-feeding birds are common. Its width depends upon the kind of birds you are after. Spread grain or other bait around the hole and much more inside it. First taking the bait around the hole, birds will enter it to get more. Rush them. In their panic they are unable to spread their wings sufficiently to take off inside the hole.

SEAGULLS: Seagulls can be caught by wrapping food around a stone and throwing into the air. The gulf swallows the bait while still on the wing. Gulping down the stone with it & the change in weight causes the bird to crash. Obviously this is a technique for use over land rather than at sea. Be ready to dispatch the bird as soon as it hits the ground.

CENTURION BIRD SNARE: Here is how the Romans used to do it. Going into the swamp he would leave his slingshot behind since there would not be any room for free movement of the arm. He would go into the thickets of the reeds all tawny at the bottom but lush and green at the tops not forgetting to hiss a little to warn the snakes of his coming since they will be warned thus will not strike at him unless taken by surprise.

The Centurion will then easily also hear little rustles and scurrying which told him of reptiles & mammals moving aside to let him by. When he was close to the river he would start to tie the tops of the reeds together so as to form an entanglement in the form of a semicircle among them. Then he would cut a section of dry reed which he splits down the middle several times.

This done, he moved away from his bird trap toward the roadway and then stops into a place which would put him above the arc of the netting that he had tied in the reeds and outside of it. Then he would shout and start to wave the split cane vigorously. This produced a brisk clacking sound and there would be a flurry and whirring of wings around him as frightened birds rose and flew down to safety of the river.

Some birds would then fly straight into the entanglement of the reeds which he had made and by this method he would secure easily 4 to 5 ducks or herons all of which had their necks broken flying into the reeds.

HUNTING HINTS:
1) Walk as quietly as possible.
2) Look around.
3) Move slowly, stop frequently and listen.
4) Hunt upwind or cross-wind wherever possible.
5) Blend with terrain features as much as possible, do not stand against the skyline or break from cover without thorough observation.
6) Be prepared! Game frequently startles the hunter or catches him off guard.

TO AVOID NOISE: WALK SLOWLY, 1 STEP AT A TIME!

ESSENTIALS PRINCIPLES OF STALKING GAME =: KEEP OFF THE SKYLINE, KEEP THE WIND IN YOUR FAVOUR FACING YOU! Search the terrain in all directions preferably with a binocular which you should have with you especially the hunters or survivors. Trial hunts reveal that "citizen" chances of stumbling upon game are pretty remote & that they will have to go out to spot it before they are spotted first.

To hunt game, you MUST observe them, they are creatures of habits, they leave traces which you can follow. Each day they go to the same places, as well as to their water points invariably. Some animals ALWAYS use the same path. Since their hearing and sight is sharp, REMEMBER before shooting not to move & with the sun in the back, the animal won't see you but you will see him better.

Also CHECK THE WIND so that it blows toward you, otherwise they will smell a rat (You?)

In MOUNTAIN, hunt from the height, animals are not used to be taken by surprise coming from above.

DISTANCE APPEARS LONGER WHEN: Than they are in reality when the terrain is accidented or rough. If there are shadows or fog, also at sunset the object observed is hard to see lacking contrast, or because we are too low or hot.

DISTANCE APPEARS SHORTER WHEN: Than they are if: the terrain is flat, or weather is real clear (after rain or storm), or just before and just after the sunset or if you observe over a water area. Or if there is a colour contrast between the object under observation and the background or when we observe from a high point, or above a valley or if snow. Now the quick evaluation of distance is not the only habit to acquire but also to learn to estimate in one quick look the surfaces & quantities to evaluate weight and time. see measuring file more info

SITTING ON A LOG ART OF HUNTING: ? This mysterious old art of hunting recommended so highly by old hunters is a hard one to perfect. Yet is one of the best way to learn the woods and see the animals.

It consists of obviously, sitting on a log. But not just for a full minute's rest, nor on just any old log. Once you learn how to spot an animal runaway, choose a log a couple feet from it. If you're just starting to learn the woods, pick a log close to a stream, or an inlet on bog pond. In either case, take a pair of binoculars if you have them.

Sit yourself down-for a couple of hours. Don't smoke, don't make any noise and move as little as possible. Simply look around. Traditionally 4 o'clock or so is tea time for many animals which would be unseen a thousand yards away in the bush if you were strolling along, will sometimes walk by only a couple of body lengths from you. Their sense of smell and sight and sound are as keen as ever. But somehow they refuse to believe that a human being can sit still like a bump on a log, and indeed most of us can't do it any more.

Keep practising. As you do, look about you, watch the leaves in action, the insects, the birds, the movement of the wind. Smell the damp earth, the pine needles. If you sit by the side of a young mushroom for the better part of a dewy night which is surely the ultimate test in log sitting endurance, you can actually see it growing.

SMALL GAME: The mainstay of the survivor particularly if he has no rifle will likely be small animals and birds. They are well distributed through the Canadian hinterland & can be taken without firearms

BEST TIME FOR HUNTING: Most of the large game animals are abroad at Dawn and toward Evening.

DAWN HUNT IS BEST FOR SURVIVORS. If they become lost they will have all day to find their way back to camp. If you are fortunate to obtain a game you have the rest of the day to dress it & begin the preservation of the meat. REMEMBER to move your camp to the kill and not the kill to the camp.

BIG GAME: Big game will provide food for a prolonged period but it requires a suitable gun, skill and a large amount of energy and some means of preserving.

LONG RANGE HUNTING TIPS: If you want to hunt near your home, you first MUST study you ground toward end of summer and start of spring. And once you decided where you will lay your traps prepare the ground so that the animals get use to the change before the hunting season start. Disturb as little as possible the area where you want to place your snare or traps, animals are suspicious, so leave it as natural as possible and MAKE SURE your traps are VERY WELL ANCHORED.

LOOKOUT HUNTING: The advantage is that is requires little energy but a lot of patience, and it is an excellent way to hunt if you have chosen well your area by studying it carefully! It is good for jacking and if you stay immobile in the upper area of prairies, game trails preferably against the wind in the sector you have chosen to hunt.

HUNTING TRICK: One trick that some hunter use is to climb a tree and using a fork branch they install a box to sit on to wait, but under the box they have put an oil lamp (Coleman style) which gives them heat through some holes that they have chisel or dug in the box.

HUNTING TIP: REMEMBER ONCE MORE THAT FAT IS ESSENTIAL TO SURVIVAL. It MUST not be wasted but kept like gold. To eat flesh without any fat for ex. Rabbit will kill you just as not to eat anything, you need fat. How much do you need fat, eat it till you don't want any more.

PRE-HUNTING TIPS: Using nylon or synthetics clothing which are very comfortable yet totaly useless for hunting because of the noise they make. They are to the game what a orchestra is to the auditor = too noisy.

Or what of the fact that ones ventures in the wood without a map of the area or a compass and to know how to use it or full of Gin but little wisdom and knowledge in case of accidents. Also one has to check on what is best to bring along and what to wear since a lot of time there is cold spell and rain along.

All excursions MUST be prepared in order to avoid troubles or to fix it if anything goes wrong then it is too late if not ready.

ALWAYS take in consideration the weather factor, not of the day but of the coming days of your future trip. Think you are the next Columbus or some famous explorer thus get ready Tarzan.

MAKE SURE THE ANIMAL IS DEAD BEFORE HANDLING IT. You could be surprised by its appearance. Poke a stick in the eye will tell you for sure if it is dead. If not; well do kill it quickly.

BEST HUNTING TIMES: Hunting is usually Much More Efficient Early at Sunrise or at sunset when the animal go to drink or to eat.

CHARACTERISTICS OF SOME ANIMALS: HUNTING TIPS: In order to help you hunting them with less difficulties:

1) Caribou & Reindeer are usually real curious and one can attract them to rifle range by agitating a cloth and by walking on all four toward them.
2) The same method will also work for Wolf.
3) The moose usually stays in deep marsh, the female watches the young and the male is their season can attack or charge you.
In WINTER one can climb a tree and spot a moose just by the steam that his body gives will tell of his presence.
4) It is not easy to approach mountain goat or #mouflon# for they are nervous & suspicious. To surprise them you MUST climb on the heights and come down without noise, against the wind while they eat with their head down.
5) The trails of #boeuf musque# are usually filled with dung. When they are worried they gather together. If you approach them at this stage they can feign to attack you.
6) Bears are harsh and unpredictable. A wounded bear is extremely dangerous, you MUST not go after it. The Polar Bear has an exceptional eyesight and strong sense of smell. It will pursue and attack man!
7) When the rabbit is scared he goes in circle and comes back to its starting point. To stop it dead on its course, you just have to whistle. Easy to catch with snare.