Back Traps and Snares 4

HUNTING TIPS:

PREPARING FOR THE HUNT: A hunter who wants to succeed MUST be prepared. First by training in shooting fast and accurately. Whether he hunts with a bow or a gun he MUST practice as much as possible and in all conditions. Even the hunter with the fastest reflex, and steel nerves can not shoot well without proper training. He MUST also be in the best possible shape for hunting is not a relax job. To carry a 200 pounds deer takes more work than you think, and many overweight hunters have died of heart attack while tackling the job.

BETTER EYE SIGHT: #1 To shoot well with a gun or arrow one MUST have more than good eyesight but he MUST also be able to apreciate the distances. Thus you MUST practice to hit the target at 50-100-200 or 300 feet so as to well educate your reflexes at variable distances. And in the forest the perspectives are different. This is why a preliminary training will reap benefits. So train yourself well in estimating distances. For ex. locate a tree or rock and evaluate the distance then go and measure it.

You will find that your numerous errors will teach you how difficult it is. Only good training in evaluation will teach this fine art. To help you in this appreciation of distances carried in different conditions learn to memorise standard distances to as to use them later.

Measure different distances and imagine what they would look like carried in the forest or on a lake. With enough practice you will become good at it. It is also good to REMEMBER that a pale object with a dark background. For ex. a deer in front of a pine hill will look even paler thus closer than it is in reality, but the same deer on the snow will look darker thus farther than in reality.

Hunting in a canoe is a very effective way to develop your vision. Since every thing moves so fast you MUST learn to sweep the horizon continually in order to maintain good vision.

BETTER EYE SIGHT #2: If you keep your gaze steady in one place the object seen becomes blurry, so keep your eyes roving and sweep the horizon like a radar. If the eyes are kept too long on the same spot or without blinking they get tired fast and loose their sharpness. So move your eyes to keep them sensitive. The circular movement of sight MUST be quick & precise. Check carefully all the terrain and then come back to some precise point, but AVOID STARRING TOO LONG.

Try to recognise the objects as far away as possible. Sweep in one direction then reverse the procedure. Normally your eyes will scan faster from left to right and be slower from right to left this can be use to better check an area which seems important.

LEFT OR RIGHT WAYS: Suppose you are spotting the deer afar off, is the branch nearby behind or ahead of the deer? Move your head slowly, if the branch moves in opposite direction then it is forward ahead, whereas the far away objects move in the same direction that the moving of the head. Early in the morning, with lesser light or at sunset the object appear smaller.

PROTECT YOUR NIGHT VISION: At night protect your sight form any light which will kill your eyesight. For ex. if you light your cigarette at night your night vision will be lost for at least 5 minutes up to 15 minutes. You MUST give your eyes a time to adjust to night vision. To discover an object darken by night look beside the place where your think the object is. Look at about 5 degrees beside and it will appear much clearer.

NIGHT VISION PRECAUTION: WHEN LOOKING AT AN OBJECT AT NIGHT IT'S BEST TO LOOK AT ONE SIDE OF IT RATHER THAN DIRECTLY AT IT.

It is difficult to distinguish anything in a dark central mass but the edges show more clearly and in poor light objects at the edges of your vision are often seen more distinctly. Once the eyes get accustomed to the dark, more and more is seen as "night vision" is acquired.

IT TAKES ABOUT 30-40 MINUTES FOR THE EYES TO GET ACCUSTOMED TO THE DARK. Once this is achieved the eyes MUST be protected from bright light or the night vision will be impaired for quite a while. If there is an unavoidable reason for having to use a light, COVER ONE EYE so that the vision in that eye at least will be retained. If for instance,you need to consult a map, a red filter over a torch will help you retain your night vision.

REMEMBER also that the night observation needs some precautions like the fact of lighting a match or to activate a flashlight will knock out your eye power for at least 15 minutes. At night it is also good to use your ears to rest a bit your eyesight by not only closing your eyes but also by lightly posing your hands over your eyes without applying any pressure.

HOW TO SEE NATURE BEST: Sweep the horizon from left to right and then right to left. This is the first principle of good vision.

SEE DON'T WALK: It is of NO USE to walk for miles and miles to see something while hunting, YOU MUST WALK VERY LITTLE, LISTEN A LOT AND OBSERVE VERY CAREFULLY. THE MORE YOU WALK THE LESS YOU OBSERVE.

BINOCULARS: EXTREME IMPORTANCE OF BINOCULARS: On an open hill side a little more than 1 mile away is a bear gorging himself on katoon, but although visibility is as good as one can expect where mountains rise in high wilderness, the berry bushes will camouflaged the bear so well that even knowing where he is you will still not be able to make him out without the telescope.

The point is that when binoculars & other such glasses are fully CAPITALized upon, they are surpassed only by the firearm itself in importance in the matter of securing game vital for survival. If knocking down a meat animal can mean the difference between life and death and particularly if your own life is not the only one so dependent you're going to attempt a needlessly dramatic offhand shot. The same principle holds true in spy glassing the country for game. You'll find yourself holding the glasses as steadily as possible.

Utilizing any available support, sitting if you can and even sprawling prone with the lenses resting on a log if afforded that opportunity. An area as one soon appreciates is best scrutinized section by section by overlapped section. Any object that may conceivably be some part of an animal is patiently watched for minutes for any sing of movement. Even if none is distinguished before shifting the field of vision you will probably fix that particular spot in mind so as to study it later to see if any detail has changed.

You will get the habit likely as not, of carefully scanning game trails for as far as you can see them.

You will give particular notice to the types of cover where you know an animal may lying & to the particular vegetation on which your are aware one may be feeding. Shores as everyone knows are especially well travel while in the water itself you too have perhaps more than one spotted moose dipping heads to uproot lily pad or have spied on bears and even mountain goat swimming.

NIGHT USE OF BINOCULARS: We will surprise number of readers by stating that the effectiveness is much more considerable by moonlight or star lite even really weak or dim than when the sun is really high. At night there is a clearness difference much more appreciable between a detail observed with the naked eye or with binoculars than when the same observation is made during the day. Between the sunrise and sunset the binocular will permit to precise details already perceived whereas in half darkness it will give the advantage to discover what the naked eye was incapable to suspect.

HANDMADE BINOCULAR NIGHT & DAY: Easy to make and cheap to boot. Try this experience at night when frost or the moon creates all kind of imaginary things by using cardboard binocular which are a kind of twin tunnels which the #tranche posterior matches the face relief#.

This way the eyes will escape the lateral rays and their sensitivity will be kept for the useful rays. A bit like someone deep in a tunnel shaft can see stars during the day. So the eyes are thus guaranty to be free to a large extent of the usual illusions made through nightly observations. (Apparent movement of immobile objects, imaginary shapes, confusion between near and far objects etc.)

Beside the fact that this man made instrument is far from being perfect it will permit to distinguish a full range of things which the naked eye was not able to analyze nor isolate. During the day they will be of a greater advantage than just using the hand over the eyes to protect the sight.

TIPS FOR HUNTING IN THE WARM CLIMATE: If you hunt in the bush you will find that going bare foot makes you less noisy and that shorts are better than long pants but then again this depends of the weather conditions and climate which you happen to be in. If you have the choice then go hunting with as little clothes as possible so as to make as little noise as possible. Cover your body with clay to ward off the bugs and to camouflage yourself.

NIGHT WALKING: NO NOISE PLEASE; At night stay as much as possible in the #bas-fond#, ditches, as low a profile as you can so as to stay in the shadow. You will then see the enemy or prey coming up enlighten by the sky above. If you want to move without being seen specially at night REMEMBER to walk without noise. And to do so a good hunter ALWAYS walks lightly by putting his toes first to the ground and not the heel.

This specially applies where there are twigs and rocks, dry leaves. Practice walking by putting your toes to the ground rather than the heel & do this in all occasion until it becomes a habit. Walk as lightly as possible as a cat, you will not get as tired as those who walk heavily thinking to impress anyone by their tank walk.

HUNTING TIPS: Keen observation of all signs of wildlife and a knowledge of the kind of animals you are hunting are as necessary to the hunter as skilful tracking and accurate marksmanship. They make it easier to be in the right place and to take advantage of the terrain.

ALWAYS PROCEED AS QUIETLY AS POSSIBLE. Move slowly and stop regularly. Carry your weight on the rear foot so that you can test the next step with the toes before transferring your weight. Thus you will avoid stumbles and help to reduce the amount of noise you produce from undergrowth and snapping sticks. FAST or sudden movement will startle the game.

SNIFF THE AIR & LISTEN. HUNT AGAINST THE WIND OR AT LEAST ACROSS IT.

IDEAL HUNTING TIME: THE IDEAL TIME TO HUNT IS AT FIRTS LIGHT, when more game is likely to be about. Animals are also about in the evening. But the light will be getting rapidly worse so you need to be sure of the terrain and know your way back to camp. In territory you know well this will not be a problem, particularly if there is a clear sky & moon or starlight to see by. If hunting in the evening go out at least an hour before dusk so that your eyes will get used to the failing light & you will develop night vision though your prey will probably be able to see better than you do.

WHERE TO HUNT?: When hunting during the day, try to hunt moving uphill in the morning and return to camp in the afternoon. Signs of animals will be easier to read as you move uphill for those on the ground will be closer to eye-level.

Thermal currants build up with the heat of the day and carry scents upwards- so by returning downhill the scent off game comes up to you before your smell reaches it. After a day out hunting and foraging the descent will take less energy than an upward climbing & by then you will welcome the easier going.

If you are moving correctly, game often will not see you. If an animal catches a glimpse of you, FREEZE. You may be the first human it has seen. It will be more curious than frightened. Keep absolutely still until the animal looks away or continues feeding.

AVOID large animals, such as bears, unless really desperate or confident of a first shot kill- or you could end up becoming the hunted not the hunter. Get as close as you can without revealing your presence and take a steady position, aiming for the area giving the greatest margin for error.

An accurate head shot is very effective but risky unless you are very close and the animal still. A point just to the back of the front shoulder is a good target. A firm, accurate strike here will drop most animals instantly. A badly aimed shot may mean unnecessary agony for the animal and a long follow up for the hunter even a possible loss.

ANIMAL SHOT = WAIT!!! If an animal drops first shot, WAIT 5 minutes before approaching. Just stand back and observe. If not dead but bleeding, the loss of blood will weaken it and, when you do approach, it will not be able to bolt. If an animal is wounded and moves away Wait 15 minutes before following up. If you follow immediately the animal will travel all day & you will loose it.

GUNSLING: The best one that just came out a few years ago is made by the Rapid Roll Inc. extremely safe, quick and easy to use; not only to carry your gun but to shoot with without endearing your manoeuvre. Made from 84 inches of nylon without seam and with a 4,000 lbs stress, good even under 70 degrees below zero and absorbing only 5% of water when wet can be used to many other purposes. It has taken 100 years to come out with the perfect gunsling, so give it a good look before rejecting such a good deal. US Pat 3495770. (No paid advertising!).

ANIMAL BYPRODUCTS: All animals provide skins. Their condition will depend on how carefully they were removed, the way the animal was killed, the age of the animal and time of year. Common defects are due to parasites, diseases, malnutrition and scars from fight injuries. Snakes, lizards, crocodiles & other reptiles all provide excellent skins. So do large birds such as Ostriches.

Some aquatic mammals, seals, and their relations are fur-bearing, like land mammals and the whales and dolphins have strong hides. Shark also have a hide instead of scales like most other fishes. Birds can be skinned with the feathers attached and used to make warm clothing or bed covers.

Skin is a source of food and in circumstances of acute shortage can be eaten, even after having been preserved and used for clothing, but it is very tough and takes a lot of digesting. There are cases of people surviving by eating their boots, though it should be emphasised that in all such cases plentiful water was available. Skins & hides are composed of water and proteins and decay quickly if they are not specially treated to preserve them. How they are treated will depend upon whether you want to retain the hair or fur, but the initial stages will be the same in both.

To make moccasins, laces, shelters, thongs, water bags or canoes, the hair is removed but for warm clothing, bedding or good insulating groundsheet it should be left on. Properly prepared skins will be supple, yet strong and resist tearing, abrasions, deformation or stretching. They are comfortable to wear, with good thermal insulation, but permeable to air and water vapour. More on this in Skinning file

HUNTING SHAFT: Since your ammunition will eventually disappear if you have any for that matter, then consider this alternative by making yourself a hunting shaft. Even a long root in the river can be used for that. Take one root about 2.50 m. long and dry it slowly over the fire and turning it around so that it stays straight. It will take you even up to 2 days in that case of a root but then it is worth it. It will be very strong even though a bit flexible. Once you have found animal tracks going under a tree you only have to climb over into the branches and when the animal goes under you jump on it and pierce the animal with the shaft as you are (bunjy?) jumping.

GUN BARREL CLEANING EMERGENCY: If somehow snow or mud got into it, remove as much of it as possible then using a cartridge without its powder and bullet but still with the firing cap you then fire the gun. The blast from the cap will clean the barrel of all foreign objects even UFO?

IDEAL SURVIVAL WEAPON: The army came with the conclusion that it was a 22 rifle, their type included in their survival kit is the collapsible type, meaning the barrel goes into the stock. But this is for an overall survival, if you have means to choose beside bazooka and stinger etc, then your best survival weapon is a flat hard shooting rifle which is rugged, accurate and durable.

A shotgun is no fit substitute nor any handgun. Although it is true that something could be saved by procuring a carbine instead of a rifle, the extra weight and length would seem to be entirely justified by the increase in potential accuracy As a matter of fact it would be hard to begrudge the additional few once of a good telescopic sight if only because of the often vital minutes one adds to the most productive hunting periods of every day.

You will probably want to include a light sling such as a Whelen or Rapid Roll if only for purposes of carrying. As for ammo for several evident reasons you will want one shot to do the job wheNEVER possible. You are therefore apt to prefer the explosive effect of a high velocity hollow point cartridge.

DIFFERENT PROBLEMS DIFFERENT PLACES: The basic problem is different however in country such as Europe & the UK where there is abundant small game but little or no big game animals. In such a region a functional weapon for living off the country is a rifle for a load like a .22 Hornet. If one wants to diversify this ammo so as to be in a position to destroy a minimum of meat, he could also carry an amount of reduced loads having similar ballistics to those of the .22 long rifle cartridge.

SURVIVAL WEAPON FOR GROUP: Suppose 2 or 3 of you each has an individual choice of survival weapons. Should one select a revolver, another a scatter gun and the third the flat shooting and hard bitting rifle.? Some such diversification at first thought would not seem unreasonable. However the same objections to handguns and shotguns would still prevail. The probability of success would be greater if all had a rifle apiece, enabling them to spread out and hunt separately. These rifles should all be identical so that the parts of one or even 2 can be used to repair the third.

BOW AND ARROW: Most effective of improvised weapons, the bow and arrow is easy to make. It takes only a short time to become confident in its use. For the bow a well seasoned wood is best but you will have to make do without. If you expect to have to stay where you are for many months you could put aside to season for future use. The tension in unseasoned wood is short lived so make several bows and change over to another weapon when the one you are using looses its spring. #Yew# = the ideal wood.

All the old English longbows were made of Yew. There are 5 kind of Yew distributed across the Northern hemisphere but it is not very common & Hickory, Juniper, Oak, White Elm, Cedar, Birch, Ironwood, Willow and Hemlock are all good alternatives.

MAKING THE STAVE: For your bow stave select a supple wand. It should be about 120cm (4 feet) long but match its size to the individual. To determine the correct length for you. Hold one end of the stave at the hip with the right hand, reach out sideways with the left hand and mark the extent of your reach as the length of the bow. This will give you a standard type bow. The longbow requires much more skill in use.

SHAPING THE BOW: Fashion the stave so that it is 5cm (2in) wide at the centre, tapering to 1.5cm (5/8in) at the ends. Notch the ends (A) to take the bowstring about 1.25cm (1/2in) from the ends. Remove the bark if you choose. When the bow has been whittled into shape rub it all over with oil or animal fat.

FITTING THE STRING: A rawhide string is best, cut to a width of 3mm (1/8in.) but any string, cord or thin rope will do. The stems of old nettles provide tough fibres and these can be twisted together to make a satisfactory bowstring. If the bow has a lot of give a shorter string is likely needed, but when strung the string should only be under slight tension.

The main tension is added when you pull back to shoot. Secure the string to the bow with a round turn and two half hitches at each end. If the wood is unseasoned release one end of the string wheNEVER the bow is not in use to relax the tension or you may find the stave sets in shape. A properly made bow will be more efficient and more accurate than just bending a pliable wand-but once it loses its spring don't waste time with it. Make another.

MAKING ARROWS: Any straight wood will do for arrows, but birch is one of the best. Make arrows about 60cm (2 feet) long and about 6mm (1/4in) wide. Keep them straight. (A piece of string tied between two points will give you a straight edge to check them against.) And as smooth as possible. At one end make a notch 6mm (1/4in) deep to fit the bow string. Check the notch in the end of each arrow is wide enough to fit over your bowstring.

FLIGHTING ARROWS: To increase accuracy arrows should be flighted. Feathers make the best flights but other material can be used: paper, light cloth or even leaves trimmed to shape. (A) split feathers, starting from the top, down centre of quill. B Leave 20mm (3/4in) of quill at each end of feather to tie arrow. C tie 3 flights equally spaced around the shaft.

ARROW HEADS: At the business end of the arrow a sharp point is needed. The arrow itself can be sharpened and hardened in fire but a firm tip is better. Tin is excellent or flint can be fashioned into a really sharp arrowhead. With patience even bone can be made into a good tip. Split the end of the shaft, insert the arrow head and bind it tightly. Sinews are good for binding- apply wet, they dry hard securing the head firmly.

WEAPONS FROM FLINT: Arrow and spear heads, axes and knives can all be made by knapping flint, which is a black stone with a dull metallic gleam, often found in association with chalk. Choose a flattish piece of approximately the right shape and size. With another hard stone flake off pieces until it is the shape you want. Chip away at the edges to produces a very sharp cutting edge. see tools in camp craft.

ARCHERY TECHNIQUE: Fit an arrow into the bowstring and raise the centre of the bow to eye-level. Hold the bow just below the arrow, extending the arm forwards. Keep the bow arm locked & draw the string smoothly back across the front of your body, with the arrow at eye-level, & lined up with the target, sighting along the arrow. Release the string-just let go, do not snatch it as you do so. Now practise! For rapid fire carry a number of arrows in your bow hand.

ARROW BURNS: Many archers find that the rubbing of the arrow flights against the hand and the cheek can cause friction burns. A scarf or a piece of cloth pulled tight to the face will protect the cheek without interfering with the shot and either a leather mitten worn or a leather guard fitted between the fingers and the wrist to protect the hand.

SLING AND SHOT: The simple sling was the weapon with which David slew the giant Goliath and can be armed with ordinary pebbles. It consist of a simple pouch in the middle of a length of rope. Leather is the best material for the pouch but you could make it from any strong fabric and the rope can be leather thong or twisted from natural fibres. Attach it as one long piece threaded through, or 2 tied or sewn on.

SLINGSHOT TECHNIQUE: Select smooth pebbles about 2cm (3/4in) across and as round as possible, jagged pebbles may do more damage but they will not follow such a smooth trajectory. Swing the sling above the head in a circle lined up on your target Release one end of the rope and the ammunition should fly with great velocity & with practice, accurately on target. You will probably need to experiment with sling length to achieve accuracy & distance. When using either the sling or the catapult against birds load several pebbles at once.

CATAPULT: The schoolboy's weapon- but the Romans used giant mechanical ones as siege weaponry. You need a strong forked twig, preferably with some pliability - a hazel prong is excellent - a piece of elastic material. A piece of inner-tube from a car or a bicycle tire is ideal and stronger than the elastic in your clothing, although that could be used. Make a pouch for the centre of the elastic and thread or sew it into position as for the sling, tie the ends to each side or your twig and use a stone as a cruise missile.

SPEARS: A staff is a good aid to walking and by sharpening one end can be turned into a useful thrusting or throwing weapon. A straight staff about 1.80m (6 feet) is ideal for a jabbing spear. About 90cm (3 feet) makes a more manageable throwing spear. A thrower can be made from a piece of wood about half the length and it gives a greater accuracy and distance.

SPEAR THROWER: Spear sits in a groove which runs along most, but not all of the upper face of the thrower. The end stop adds thrust to the spear.

TO MAKE A THROWER: Choose a tree limb that is at least twice the width of your spear and with a branch stump which can become the forward sloping handle. Split down the centre using a knife as a wedge. Gouge out a smooth channel for the spear. MAKE SURE it is cleanly cut, leaving a solid portion as a buffer. Experiment to match the thrower length to that of the spear and to suit your own balance. Held at shoulder level, aim the spear at the target, bringing the holder sharply forwards and then downwards. As you move downwards the butt of the groove adds to the thrust behind the spear.

To make a spear more effective add a point of flint, knapped to sharpness or a flattened cone of tin, set into the end or securely bind on a knife. However if you only have one knife do not risk it, it could too easily be lost or damage.

HANDLING THE KILL: Wounded and trapped animals can be dangerous. Before approaching closely check whether then animal is dead. Use a spear or tie your knife to a long stick and stab the largish animal in its main muscle and neck. Loss of blood will weaken it, enabling you to move closer and club it on the head. (Boum!).

If you have a companion it is easier to carry a large animal by tying it firmly to a bough which can be carried on your shoulders but you should not take it all the way to the camp, where it would attract flies and scavenging animals. Even large animals can be dragged to a more convenient location if turned upon their backs. If the animal has horns cut off its head or they will make this difficult. Place the pole along the belly and use a clove hitch around each pair of legs. Lash the animal to the pole and finish with a clove hitch around the pole. If the animal has horns, tie these up out of the way or cut them off.

It is preferable to butcher all game on the trap line. It will attract predators and carrion eaters that in turn may become trapped. Use the entrails to rebait traps. Only carry back to camp what you can manage without exertion. In cool climates cache the rest for collection later.

HIDING THE KILL: Suspend a carcase from a bough too high for scavengers on the ground and out of reach from the branch. A cache in a the crook of a tree will keep meat away from ground predators but will be accessible to felines and other climbing predators. In territories with vultures and other large carrion eaters it will be almost impossible to protect it, so carry what you can. What you leave behind is unlikely to keep in a hot climate. Blood is a valuable food, containing vital minerals. Carry a vessel for taking it back to camp. Keep it covered, cool & out of the way of flies.

DEER FAMILY: Deer are found in parts of Britain and Europe
IN SUMMER: Follow ridges overlooking open country but avoid showing yourself against the skyline.Look for saltlicks and wallows. Flies and ticks torment these animals during hot weather and they take refuge in wallows. This frantic splashing can be heard at considerable distance. Watch for game trails since most animal prefer to use these when travelling.
IN WINTER: The Deer usually "yard up" in low lying protected areas, such as Cedar Swamps which they love to eat, Willow clumps & other thickets.

WHEN STALKING GAME: Hunt upwind or crosswind, avoid making noise & stop frequently to scan the area. If an animal starts up suddenly remain stationary as they often return to investigate what has caused the noise. So don't follow it immediately since it might not know your presence, so by checking all sides you have a better chance to kill it, many animals act this way.

BEFORE SHOOTING MAKE SURE IT'S AN ANIMAL!!!: Unless the animal is really near, the head or neck are too small a target since when you are ready to shoot the animal may decide to move suddenly so as most hunters do it is preferable to aim at the hearth and lungs area. This method is faster and more sure and once hit the animal can not go far. One can also aim for the belly but the results are not as good, the animal can still run many a mile without showing any blood trails before dying.

AFTER SHOOTING: Should you wound an animal; Don't follow it immediately! If you attempt to follow it, it may run for miles before dropping, but if you wait 5 minutes or even 10 it may lie down after a short run & either bleed or stiffen up. If you wait too long then it may decide to try another run and go before you show up. Have a smoke. When game is taken, bleed clean and cool as soon as possible.

It is a common error, to think that an animal deadly wounded will drop and stay where it is. Most will clear away at least a hundred feet or so after and drop for a spell, thus you have to go after it but as we said wait a little while before going to look around. As soon as you can you MUST bleed and clean the animal especially Deer. Since its own heat is enough to spoil the meat.

MAKE SURE THAT THE ANIMAL IS DEAD, by poking a stick in the eye.

DEER HUNTING ADDED TIPS: In Summer it is not easy to discover the running area of a deer. But by walking SLOWLY & observing ATTENTIVELY you will see the trails left on black earth, mud or soft soil. As soon as they are found you then MUST be attentive to the young alder, willow, maple shoot etc. which are nearby.

When you find the tip of these trees cut as if by a blade then you are on. The whither the cut the more recent is the last meal, the more yellow the cut, the older is the meal. You then should easily find manure pile, the more shiny and brown the fresher it is, the more grey and dull the older it is. The deer as the moose give shit in pill forms. So once you have found the traces of manure & freshly cut shoots you have to be very careful and you will find the paths that the deer use.

HOW TO TRACK HIS PATH: As soon as you have found one path, just walk perpendicularly to this one & you will find others near by. The greenhorn will have the impression that those trails are man made being so clean and well kept and about 15 inches wide; clean to the ground and where no grass or moss is growing just as clean as sheep trail.

If one of those trails brings you to a river or stream or any water points then you are in deer terrain having found all the indications of his normal habitat. Study then very carefully this terrain in an area of about 1 square mile, a deer has rarely a bigger area except for mating time which starts after hunting time anyway in later fall. Find the most used path and trail and the best places where you can catch and see best the deer. Study the winds and where best to hide so that the wind is in your favour, sometimes at the outset of a forest sometimes inside.

DEER HABITS: Once one knows where the deer is living you MUST learn his habits. The early bird gets the worm is true in hunting deer. At high moon there is little chance to get him. In high wind the animals are usually very nervous and hide most of the time just the same if it rains or snow heavily. Even if there is not specific time schedule to bag a deer, usually the best time is from daybreak to 8 or 9 AM. & about 1 hour before sunset.

WIND STUDY VERY IMPORTANT: You MUST study the wind very carefully otherwise there is no chance to hunt a deer that has smell your presence which is why;

It is VERY VERY IMPORTANT TO WALK AGAINST THE WIND OR PERPENDICULARLY TO IT IF YOU WANT TO HUNT SUCCESSFULLY! Consequently it is good to know that hot air rises and that the morning sun heating the mountain flanks pushes the air upward. The deer know this very well & so MUST you also.

WHERE & WHEN TO HUNT: So before Noon you will hunt from up the mountain going down and in the Evening the air flows downward unless a strong wind prevails thus you will hunt from down the mountain going upward.

WARNING WIND CHANGES OFTEN: REMEMBER THAT IN THE MOUNTAINS THE WIND CHANGES DIRECTIONS MANY TIMES IN THE DAY. The deer as most animal has the hear and smell extremely well developed but his sight is not as good, it does not mean it is blind as a bat for all that, but colours mean very little to him. Yet the least movement will catch his attention. You MUST then stay immobile and MAKE SURE that you leave behind your back a big tree or rock, or shrub whatever is big enough to hide you completely so as to render any movement from you harder to detect. MAKE SURE you don't have anything shiny or too pale a face.

The deer is not afraid of noise, it knows instinctively which one is dangerous for him. It has been often seen not even raising his head to the noise of plane breaking sound barrier or close to a road full of noisy car going by and not even seem to notice Yet the rushing feet or hunter will drive him away in a hurry. Even the sound of a gun can leave him indifferent.

His smelling sense is maybe the strongest and to smell man is for him a sign to move out quickly. It is to the hunter the point that appears to be the one which you MUST MOST BE CAREFUL. So MAKE SURE you don't use shaving lotion or perfume and that your hunting clothes will be hung outside for several days, as well if possible as to rub Cedar leaves on you and on your clothes.

The deer just adores to eat in fresh wood cuttings where he can stuff himself of young spruce shoot, many a wood cutter has thus found him close by & taken advantage of this craving. In summer he craves for salt thus you can use this to get him. If he finds a salt point he will organise his life style in consequences thus making it easier for you to bag him later. But in the autumn he losses this salt craving completely. His winter quarters are not the same as the summer ones.

He also likes apple, clover, lettuce, strawberries and is particularly sensitive to #thuya# as soon as the first snow hits the ground. He also loves cedar & will stick closer to them especially if there are but a few of them around. This is why many hunters will rub #thuya# oil on them during hunting season.

The deer is very curious by nature especially the doe and the young deer, this is why they have the tendency to stop after his first run of 7 to 800 feet after having something that looks like a human. They want to be sure thus you can take advantage of this. The female nearly ALWAYS comes first before the male, you will see the female and then a few minutes later the buck will come along. The buck function is to guard the rear to protect the doe.

WHAT AND WHERE TO SHOOT: Weight for weight shoot for the big game of course and you aim from the steadiest position for the vital region which affords the most margin for error, usually the chest.

DEER & WHERE TO SHOOT ANATOMY: A deer rarely places himself to be shot as one would like it to be yet one has to hit a vital point to kill it. The only parts that will bring a quick death are the brain, hearth, lungs and #colonne vertebral#. Elsewhere a deer could be mortally wounded yet go to die a mile farther especially if you make the mistake to go run after as soon as you hit it.

This is why you MUST LEAVE IT BE for a while about 5 minutes so it can bleed sufficiently for you to finish it off. If you find traces of dirty blood stains of bluish colour it means you have it hit at the intestines and the deer can survive for many hours still. So to run after it right away would be extreme carelessness in that particular case go after the deer only later. (10 min.) This may sound hard to do with the hunting fever but it is the only good thing to do.

Do not be caught on appearance alone, for a deer hit at the lungs will run just as fast as the deer near by and will give you the impression of being unwounded. Also often a deer which you have missed will not move at all thus giving you the chance for a second shot even a third one, however once hit, it will not give you a second chance.

If a deer moves after the shot but does not stop immediately after the bang then it is most likely a hit. The only time it will drop on sight is if it is hit at the brain or #colonne vertebralle#.

Lets suppose that the deer is on profile but at lower range for ex. at a couple hundred feet at the foot of a hill. You MUST then aim at several vertebral higher to correct the angle otherwise you will it the deer at the lungs at the lower belly point of entry. If the deer is much higher than you, then you MUST hit lower. Avoid to hit directly at the head, you may tear off 3/4 of the head but without any guaranty to drop the deer, unless you hit it just above the eyes which is a very small target indeed.

How to beat the deer on its own terrain or the hardest hunt. To succeed one needs: INFINITE PRECAUTIONS.

TO WATCH THE WIND SO AS TO ALWAYS KEEP THE WIND BETWEEN YOU & THE DEER. (SMELL A RAT?) To walk as an animal without any noise and with a slowness difficult to imagine. One want to believe that the more he walks the better his chance to see a deer, he will but not close enough for a good shot. A deer unless in heat walks in a small area, relying on his sense of smell, and hearing and eyesight to avoid danger. He walks very slowly, listening a lot, stops at any noise even 5 minutes without moving a hair then starts again looking all around! All these precautions makes it that he covers hardly more than 1/2 mile per hour.

ANY HUNTER WHO WANTS TO DO IT FASTER MAKES A BIG MISTAKE.

There are times when this type of hunting can not be done. A clear weather, a frozen ground or a noisy crispy snow compounded with a good wind will tell your presence up to one mile all around and no deer will let you come near by. The ideal conditions are when there is a #temps mort, also un sol sourd# or covered with a good soft snow sheet.

As soon as you see a deer, don't move at all, otherwise it's gone. Wait till it relaxes then approach it slowly, check where you walk so as not to step of dead branches etc. and check the wind.

IN A WAY THE EASIEST WAY TO HUNT SINCE YOU DON'T HAVE TO TRACK THE GAME. But it requires you to know very well the habits of the deer and its habitat, needing also a patience of a monk and a very very strong resistance to cold and adverse weather. Requiring at time even a week of waiting before you can bag the game. Regardless of those inconveniences, IT IS THE MOST PRODUCTIVE WAY TO KILL GAME. Since you will do fewer errors while waiting for your game to show up except if you move constantly, then zero games for Rambo on the go. Especially if you have chosen an elevate spot to wait your game, the deer has very little chance since it can not see, hear or smell you. A deer rarely looks up to see if there is any danger around.

This kind of hunting is good not only for deer but bobcat, fox, moose, wolf. You can hide behind a rock, a bush or a shrub etc. You can sit or stand in your cache or even lay down but the choice of your cache requires an in depth study of the surrounding land, as well as the incoming & outgoing of the animals hunted. SPECIALLY THE EXACT OBSERVATION OF THE WIND DIRECTION WHICH YOU MUST EITHER FACE OR TO BE ON THE SIDE OF IT.

It sometimes helps if you have 2 different cache so that if the wind is in the wrong direction for one cache you revert to the other one. Still your best bet is the one cache that is elevated and well prepared ahead at strategic points near the paths where the animals go for good or water or the one that he goes to rest for the day.

Deer have general routes like our highways but also a route which he uses for emergency procedures. It will usually travel so as to have the wind in its face as it goes to rest, feed or water. The best places for fodder are the clearings, foot of hills or mountains, wood roads, along swamps and in cultivated and shallow land. Even for greenhorns the feeding grounds are easy to spot by numerous trails, crushed grass, leaves bitten off or chewed off young shoots freshly cut, shit pile and other signs. Yet this kind of hunting requires as said an angel patience, steel nerves, complete and noiseless immobility. So don't toss, turn, sniffle, cough or smoke! Play dead. If you scare the little animals around you will also warn the big ones too.

If the weather is calm and with no wind, this type of hunting is best not to wait too long since the area will be filled with your smell, thus warn the animal. If the time is dry then it is best to stick around in the cache since all branches crack easily. REMEMBER that in the mountains the wind changes directions many times in the day, throwing dust in the air, or wetting your finger will tell you its direction.

CACHE LAMP TRICK: This is why the lamp trick is useful to help you fight the chill. You make a wooden box under which you put an oil lamp lighted which will give you warmth. MAKE SURE that the box is high enough so as not to catch fire to the wood & not burn your ass while sitting. Also a piece of felt is useful. Sorry no walkman!

CANOE HUNTING: Rarely practice by hunters yet very successful if done properly. The deer is not afraid of canoe, what the deer hates is sudden movement which he associates to animal hunting him or animals in distress, so to him sudden moves = danger. To a deer people in canoe are like floating logs. Since the deer loves water then a canoe trip of about 15 to 20 miles on a river or around a lake is nearly ALWAYS a sure way to see and kill a deer.

However the shooting in a canoe is extremely difficult so you MUST shoot fast while the other man tries to immobilise the canoe as best as possible, yet it requires 2 persons to do such a hunting. The best all around canoe for normal river is 22 feet long & for the smaller rivers or stream the 16 feet & about 70 lbs. known as the canvas canoe. REMEMBER to bring canoe gum so that if you make a hole on a sharp stone it can be fix fast. Dress well for the water is usually extremely cold at the best time of the year.

ANIMAL DANGERS: Few animals are likely to attack the survivor unless in self-defence, most will be much more concerned to get out of the way. There is little chance of encountering large animals such as elephants, rhinos, dinosaurs hippopotamus or the larger big cats outside wildlife reserves. Nevertheless avoid making camp on a trail, or close to an animal watering place, where you could find you are in the path of a herd of elephants or confronted by a curious cougar. DON'T PROVOKE AN ENCOUNTER!

ALL INJURED OR CORNERED ANIMALS ARE LIKELY TO BE EXTREMELY DANGEROUS. Most animals will try to escape. If you prevent them from doing so, you are forcing them to fight. Any of the large-horned animals is likely to be able to wound you with its horns before you can reach it with a weapon. Stags are particularly belligerent in the rutting season. It is not just hoofed animals that can deliver a powerful blow with their feet, ostriches can kill you with a kick.

Wolves are much more often heard than seen. Tales of large marauding packs are probably wild exaggerations. A wolf may get curious and look at you from a distance but you can take with a pinch of salt the idea of hunters being chased by pack of ferocious wolves. If you are badly injured and unable to defend yourself, wolves might finish you off. Hyenas also hunt in packs. Although basically cowardly, they are very powerful and as scavengers are attracted to camp sites. They will probably turn tail and run but drive them off rather than try to tackle them.

The larger apes can easily kill a man but they are rarely aggressive animals and will usually give you plenty of Warnings to back off. Small monkeys are much more often encountered and more immediately dangerous because they have sharp teeth. Mature chimpanzees in particular can be very bad tempered. Thoroughly cleanse any animal bite. All could cause tetanus and some mammals including vampire bats can carry rabies.

Snake will not be a threat unless you accidentally come into contact with them. You just have to get used to them and to check clothing, bedding & equipment for any reptile or insect visitors. Occasionally a snake or a centipede may slide into bed with you attracted by your warmth. Cases have been known of people waking to find an unwelcome visitor nestling in an armpit or even more intimate places. Try to REMEMBER that they are not attacking. Move gently and calmly to free yourself from them.

SEA ANIMAL HUNTING TIPS:
1) During winter and during spring the water ?? together such as seals, walrus and polar bear will stay on floating ice or iceberg. Good source of food and fuel.
2) To catch seals proceed with caution and prudence. Stay against wind and not sharp movements. If possible wear white clothing. Move forward only when the head of the animal tells you it is asleep. If it moves stand up quickly and shout, the animals being surprised will stay put then it time to shoot it down. The liver of shark & seal is rich in Vitamin A so for you not to get sick only eat a little of it.
3) Walruses stay on floating ices and you MUST approach them usually with a boat. THEY ARE THE MOST DANGEROUS ANIMALS IN THE ARCTIC, better stay away it's safer.
4) Polar bears live nearly all along the Arctic shore. It rarely goes to land. Avoid it as much as possible.
ITS FLESH IS FULL PARASITE; SO NEVER EAT IT UNLESS WELL COOKED.

SEAL: The common seal is found along most sea coast of the polar region. The survivor can use it as food and as fuel for its oil. If the seal is killed between the month of August and June its body floats so you can bring it back to dry land. After June the body will sink because it has less fat. At sea the seal is very curious and if you hit or scratch something it will come nosing around to see what the phoquing story is all about.

During the Winter the seal lives under the ice but comes to breath through ice hole which are hard for greenhorns to find. But in the spring the seal can be hunted easily since they love to take sun bath lifting its head every minute or so to check the area. This is when you have to stay immobile, if you have any white sheet use it as camouflage to crawl till close enough to shoot.

HIDE SCENT: To hide your scent well, just stand in front of a smoky fire for 10 to 15 minutes on both side till the smoke gets itself into your clothes. Since smoke kills scent then animals will come right up to you without problems.

HAND WARMER SECOND USE: You can use your hand warmer charcoal to start a fire too.

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